1、本科生毕业论文（英文文献翻译）题 目 时尚与人体工学设计：影响的方面服装可用性 学 院 轻纺与食品学院 专 业 服装设计与工程 学生姓名 钟 炯 学 号 2012141504068 年级 2012 级 指导教师 李晓蓉 教务处制表二 一六年六月三日四川大学本科毕业论文（英文文献翻译） 时尚与人体工学设计：影响的方面服装可用性 06th International Conference on Applied Human Factors and Ergonomics (AHFE 2015) and the Affiliated Conferences, AHFE 2015Fashion and E
2、rgonomic Design: Aspects that influence the perception of clothing usabilityrica P. das Neves a *, Aline C. Brigatto a , Luis C. Paschoarelli aa UNESPUniv. Estadual Paulista, Av. Eng. Luiz Edmundo C. Coube 14-01, Bauru17033-360, BrazilAbstractThe relevant issues about clothing have been increasing i
3、n recent times. The increase number of consumers and users that search for differentiated and appropriate products to their needs and expectations is impacting on the design stages as well as on manufacturing process. Thus the understanding of specified segments of consumers and users emerges as a c
4、ompetitive strategy that is favourable to the development of products that are adequate and satisfactory to different individuals. Regarding the fashion context, the clothing product provides to the emotional level channels of signification and subjective identification. Considering the direct conta
5、ct between clothing and user, the information about anthropometric biomechanical and ergonomic are of extreme relevance for the development of modelling that are appropriated to different needs of different segments of users. 2015 The Authors. Published by Elsevier B.V.Peer-review under responsibili
6、ty of AHFE Conference.Keywords:Fashion, Ergonomic Design, Anthropometric, Usability1. IntroductionThe relevant issues about clothing have been increasing in recent times. The increase number of consumers and users that search for differentiated and appropriate products to their needs and expectation
7、s is impacting on the design stages as well as on manufacturing process.Thus the understanding of specified segments of consumers and users emerges as a competitive strategy that is favorable to the development of products that are adequate and satisfactory to different individuals. Considering the
8、direct integration of the clothing with the skin and the topography of the body, the garment generates value of judgment inherent to 四川大学本科毕业论文（英文文献翻译） 时尚与人体工学设计：影响的方面服装可用性 1the perception of the aspects of usability, pleasantness, comfort, enjoyment and satisfaction regarding the needs of the subje
9、ct.From this principle, ergonomic design provides tools that when applied during the stages of clothing conception,may be able to direct more precisely the characteristics of the product in favor of safety, efficiency and comfort. In order to understand the complexity of the integration of body and
10、clothing, the study of anatomy and body movement are necessary. It is important to understand the balance plans of the entire body as well as the its movements such as flexion, extension and other 1.In this way, the multi and interdisciplinary interaction between project of clothing and ergonomic de
11、sign contributes to the progress and to the resolution of the project of clothing projects. The understandings of the concepts of usability, comfort and ergonomics which are specific of certain groups (niches) are necessary in order to obtain fashion patterns that adequately meets to their expectati
12、on and requirements.1.1. The metamorphosis of FashionThroughout the evolution of societies, fashion contributed to the identification of social and identity role of the subjects by hierarchical use of different clothes and accessories. Its symbolic character is a reflection of subjective and cultura
13、l aspirations of a certain period, which, in turn, significantly reflect on the physical and constructive aspects of fashion products, especially clothing.With respect to the symbolic, physical and materials aspects of clothing, it can be noticed an infinity of transformation that expressed the soci
14、al,cultural and technological context of a given period. In general, the clothing has gone through a process of simplification, especially from the decade of 1800. This phenomenon is primarily due to new industrial technologies, to higher demands of products and to the adaptation to new manufacturin
15、g process.As an example,the revolution in womens clothing led by French designer Paul Poiret in the early twentieth century can be mentioned. Thanks to the fashion creator, the womens clothes were simplified becoming lighter, thus facilitating the movements of body 2.The fashion innovation broke wit
16、h the rigid structure of the corsets that made pressure on womans abdomen in order to create and define a slim waist, a protuberant bust and a straight 四川大学本科毕业论文（英文文献翻译） 时尚与人体工学设计：影响的方面服装可用性 2posture. The stylist also proposed a lighter silhouette, deeper necklines (mainly the “V” model), apparent
17、shoulder, ample shapes, and other modeling variations.In general, throughout history, a variety of social, cultural and professional practices have contributed to a more efficient and realistic view about the needs of the individual and of their daily tasks. Due to this trend and the industrial logi
18、c of large-scale production between 1950 and 1960, the fashion has become more democratic, and therefore, the user began to be perceived with more relevance by companies in the sector.The new phase was characterized by what came to be known in France as prt-porter, and in the United States as ready
19、to wear. Rigidity, ostentation and exclusivity of the haute couture were no longer consistent with the new economic, cultural and demographic realities of the postwar years. There was a need for more agility and quantity of products. Thus a rapid production system began to be practiced under new ind
20、ustrial characteristics that were adapted to the increasing demands of garments product 3,4.The new industrial system promoted great transformation within the creative and development process of fashion products. The demand for products increased significantly due to new social groups which had high
21、er purchasing power and new forms of consumption established with the advent of mechanization and mass production. Consequently, the system was quickly disseminated through several regions of the world, favoring the strengtheningof the textile and apparel industry. The design and planning stages of
22、clothing increasingly improved concerning to new textile and industrial technologies, as well as became more sensitive to social and cultural movements.The hedonistic consumption was becoming increasingly present, intensified primarly by aesthetic and symbolic elements of fashion products. Consequen
23、tly, the industry had to be opened to the perceptions and desires of a society increasingly focused on the present, on the new and on the possibilities of identity expression. The youth groups, for instance, were a segment of consumer which significantly influenced guidelines of development and prod
24、uction of a few fashion products over the course of the decades after the consolidation of the industrial system 3.四川大学本科毕业论文（英文文献翻译） 时尚与人体工学设计：影响的方面服装可用性 3With the postmodernism ideas, markets became more complex and were no longer large and homogeneous. The new tendency of consumption led the indu
25、stry to divide into smaller and smaller segments, which were identified by different needs and expectations of individuals 5.In this scenario, consumers came to be perceived as determining factor in product development of products. As in previous periods, their actions, desires and expectations indu
26、ced significantly the correct sizing of the products, considering aesthetic, physical, practical and functional aspects. These factors, in turn, began to determine new constructive methodologies for garment products. The aspects of fashion pattern began to become more prominent,especially due its fo
27、cus on the assertiveness of the product. The target audience began to be analyzed and considered, especially when industries realized that to increase the production and sales, it was necessary to stimulate the consumption must be effective and continuous. Buying and having were actions that were ab
28、le to construe the individual subjectivity through non-verbal elements, reflecting on how the subject would be perceived.In the context of industrialization, some ergonomic knowledge arising from World War II began to be inserted6. Withthe industrial production, clothing patterns of shapes and sizin
29、g/measuresbegan to be essential in order to cover the dimensional standards of some individual variations 6.When well-know the user, recognizing their needs, capabilities and limitations, it is possible to identify in advance the occurrence of accidents, health damages and discomfort 6. Consequently
30、, the individuals are gradually being seen as users and not just as mere consumers.Allied to this, the market segmentation began to offer variations in functional benefits as well as more attention towards the hedonistic needs 5. Mainly with the postmodernism advent, the researchers with users and c
31、onsumers began to extrapolate the aspects of marketing and advertising. The image manipulation realized by media, especially after mid-1950s, were no longer sufficient given the vastness of products that constitute the market. In the post-industrial society the ostentatious aspects of the product we
32、re no longer sufficient to the user or consumer, becoming the experience and the emotion both aspects of significant importance to the quality of a product 7.四川大学本科毕业论文（英文文献翻译） 时尚与人体工学设计：影响的方面服装可用性 4Regarding the fashion context, the clothing product provides to the emotional level channels of signi
33、fication and subjective identification. Besides symbolic and aesthetic elements and composition, it gives indistinguishable tools for the promotion of affective states to individual 8.Thus, the basic functions of clothing extrapolate the function of dressing and covering the body and are associated
34、with the social conditions of subjectivity and construction of identity 8. Considering its direct contact with thetopography of the body and the skin, the fashion product generates judgment of value resulted from the perception of aspects of usability, pleasantness, comfort, enjoyment and satisfacti
35、on of individual needs 8.In this way, the physical and structural characteristics of the clothing that configure this fashion product stimulate the positive evaluation of the user regarding a certain product. In this process, the interdisciplinary characteristic of ergonomics is perceived as a facto
36、r that helps in the mediation between the body and the clothing, once this science may offer constructive tools that may be able to provide safety, comfort and health to the user.1.2. Ergonomic Design and Usability aspects: user particularitiesConsidering the direct contact between clothing and user
37、, the information about anthropometric biomechanical and ergonomic are of extreme relevance for the development of modeling that are appropriated to different needs of different segments of users. Identified these aspects, it may be possible to develop satisfactory, safe and comfortable products. Ac
38、cording to Montemezzo and Santos 9 the clothing, due its contact with the user, acts like an extension of the body such as a “second skin, which, in turn, is essential to optimize the interface between product and user in order to avoid any discomfort.The modeling is a process that starts from the o
39、bservation of the body and its mapping, and ends with the dressing test over a real body 10. Therefore, to the development of an adequate modeling is necessary to know the human anatomy as well as the functions of the body 1. At this point, the specific characteristics of the individuals must be obs
40、erved and exploited in order to obtain consistent data to the development of appropriate products and with quality. It is also necessary to understanding or estimate the 四川大学本科毕业论文（英文文献翻译） 时尚与人体工学设计：影响的方面服装可用性 5preferences and responses of the user regarding the products which will be elaborated.The
41、 use of anthropometric, through the application of scientific methods of body measuring, is appropriate to identify the differences between individual and social groups. The objective of this application aims to obtainrelevant information to help architectural design, urbanism planning, engineering
42、project, and of course, design 11. In the perspective of fashion, all the articulation of the body that involves or maintains a direct contact with clothingmust be analyzed in order to create a product with aesthetic and ergonomics quality.Regarding to clothing, the anthropometry provides to the des
43、igners two system of body measuring: Static or Structural; and Dynamic or Functional 11. The first one is related mainly to the variations of the body of the individuals, and the second one to the different biomechanical aspects that are associated to different movements and daily tasks. Convectiona
44、l modeling mainly uses statistics data of the users such as waist, hip and neck circumference; length of the body or arm; and others.These data influence the clothing dimensioning. Allied to this, the particular contributions of certain segments of users help to guide the correct drawing or shape of
45、 some pieces of clothing that must be adequate to specific and different needs and expectations. Female or male users, elderly and obese are some of the segments that can illustrate this reality.Each region of the body must be analyzed in order to provide correct information about how a piece of clo
46、thing will work in relation to the physical movements. Arms, legs, hips and head, for instance, make several moves that may come into conflict with certain characteristic present in a specific outfit, such as tight sleeves/armholes or collars, loose paints, and others.For this joint work, some aspec
47、ts regarding biomechanical and joints articulation must be identified, such as:extension, flexion, adduction and abduction; rotation; and circumduction (Figure 1). Thus, the clothing process must bring together anatomy, moves and the product itself in order to satisfy the physical and anatomical nee
48、ds of the user, reaching the ideal quality of dressing through functionality and comfort 1.四川大学本科毕业论文（英文文献翻译） 时尚与人体工学设计：影响的方面服装可用性 6Fig. 1. Some moves to be considered (adapted from Grave 1 and Boueri 11As seen, all these knowledge imply a variety of data that are important to understand the relatio
49、nship between user and clothing. In addition, the understanding of daily activities also helps to identify common moves that may be affected by clothing. These movements can be simple as sit, down, bend the knee and others as well as specific movements of certain activities (Figure 2).Fig. 2. Some activities to be considered四川大学本科毕业论文（英文文献翻译） 时尚与人体工学设计：影响的方面服装可用性 7With these variables is possible to create an anthrop
