1、296 TM 163-2013 AATCC Technical Manual/2014Developed in 1985 by Committee RR92;editorially revised and reaffirmed 1986,1992, 1997, 2002, 2012; reaffirmed1987, 2007; editorially revised 1995,2001, 2008, 2010, 2011; revised 2013.1. Purpose and Scope1.1 The storage of garments made withcomponent parts
2、of more than one shadesometimes results in the transfer of dyefrom one area to another, normally fromthe darker to the lighter shade. This phe-nomenon is distinct from sublimation be-cause it occurs below the sublimationtemperature of dyes as well as with non-subliming dyes.1.2 Dye transfer occurs w
3、hen garmentsare folded with different shades in inti-mate contact with each other. Normallythe amount of dye transferred is intensi-fied when moisture is present, and thusthe problem is more severe during warm,humid weather or when garments aresteamed immediately before storage.Storage in plastic ba
4、gs tends to maintainthe initial relative humidity of the gar-ment environment and can aggravate orreduce transfer depending on the condi-tion of the fabric when it enters the bag.1.3 This test method is intended to esti-mate if color transfer might be expectedto occur during prolonged periods of sto
5、r-age. In general, no problems will be ex-pected under normal conditions of stor-age or time-delay, if color transfer doesnot occur under the conditions specifiedin Section 7 (Procedure).1.4 This test method may be used alsoto assess potential color transfer prob-lems that relate to finishing. Some
6、dyesare inherently more prone to transfer thanothers, and some chemical finishes andfinishing conditions accelerate transfer.2. Principle2.1 Dyed and finished test specimensare sandwiched between pre-wet multifi-ber fabric and a selected second fabric,placed in a Perspiration Tester for 48 h atroom
7、temperature, dried and rated.3. Terminology3.1 colorfastness, n.the resistance ofa material to change in any of its colorcharacteristics, to transfer of its color-ant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as aresult of the exposure of the material toany environment that might be encoun-tered during the
8、processing, testing, stor-age or use of the material.3.2 dye, n.a colorant applied to orformed in a substrate, via the molecularydispersed state, which exhibits some de-gree of permanence.3.3 transfer, n.in textile processing,testing, storage and use, movement of achemical, dye or pigment between fi
9、berswithin a substrate or between substrates.4. Safety PrecautionsNOTE: These safety precautions arefor information purposes and are not in-tended to be all inclusive. It is the usersresponsibility to use safe and proper tech-niques in handling materials and equip-ment in this test method. Manufactu
10、rersMUST be consulted for specific detailssuch as material safety data sheets andother manufacturers recommendations.All OSHA standards and rules must alsobe consulted and followed.4.1 Good laboratory practices shouldbe followed. Wear safety glasses in alllaboratory areas.4.2 Manufacturers safety re
11、commen-dations should be followed when operat-ing laboratory testing equipment.4.3 Observe padder safety. Ensure ade-quate guard at the nip point. Normal safe-guards on pad should not be removed. Afoot-operated kickoff is recommended.5. Apparatus and Materials (see 11.1)5.1 Perspiration tester.5.2 P
12、lastic bag, polyethylene, largeenough to contain perspiration tester.5.3 Multifiber Test Fabric (8 mm 0.33in. bands) containing acetate, cotton, ny-lon, polyester, acrylic and wool.5.4 White fabric of same fiber compo-sition as test specimens. If not available,cotton cloth as defined in AATCCMethod
13、8, Colorfastness to Crocking:Crockmeter Method.5.5 Distilled or deionized water.5.6 Evaporating dish or glass beakerhaving the capacity to hold 50 mL of wa-ter. Wet sponge may also be used.5.7 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Trans-ference Scale (AATCC Evaluation Proce-dure 8) (see 11.2)5.8 Gray Scale for Sta
14、ining (AATCCEvaluation Procedure 2) (see 11.2)5.9 Gray Scale for Color Change(AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1) (see11.2).6. Test Specimens6.1 Prepare 5.7 5.7 cm (2.25 2.25in.) test specimens from each sample ofthe dyed fabric to be tested.6.2 Prepare 5.7 5.7 cm (2.25 2.25in.) multifiber and 5.7 5.7 cm
15、(2.25 2.25 in.) white fabric swatches.7. Procedure7.1 Option I.7.1.1 Immerse in distilled or deionizedwater at 24 3C (75 5F) both the mul-tifiber fabric and the fabric selected for theopposite side of the sandwich (see 5.4).The wet pickup of these fabrics should be100-110% (see 11.3). Do not wet out
16、 thespecimen to be tested to prevent removalof dye or finish before testing begins.7.1.2 Prepare a sandwich with the dyedtest specimen between pre-wet multifibercloth and the pre-wet white swatch (see5.4).7.1.3 Clamp the sandwich (prepared asdirected in 7.1.2) between two cleanplates of the Perspira
17、tion Tester. Set thePerspiration Tester as instructed in 9.4.1of AATCC Method 15, Colorfastness toPerspiration, except that the unit is notplaced in an oven.7.1.4 Enclose the Perspiration Tester ina polyethylene bag along with a dish (see5.6) containing at least 50 mL of distilledor deionized water
18、to maintain high rela-tive humidity in the polyethylene bag.Seal the opening in the bag with a twisttie or rubberband if zipping bag is notused (see 5.2). Allow to remain 48 h atroom temperature (24 3C 75 5F).Take care that the Perspiration Tester doesnot fall into the water dish (see 11.4).7.1.5 Re
19、move the cover from the Per-spiration Tester, remove the sandwichedspecimens from the tester and separatethe swatches. Allow the swatches to dryat room temperature.7.2 Option II.7.2.1 An accelerated test procedure hasbeen used showing approximately thesame results on some dyed or finishedfabrics by
20、placing the test apparatus (see7.1.4) in a force draft oven at 38 1C(100 2F) for 4 h (see 11.4).8. Evaluation (see 11.8)8.1 After the swatches are dried, exam-ine the multifiber and the white cloth forcolor transfer. Rate each of the fiber typesin the multifiber fabric and the swatch onthe opposite
21、side of the sandwich sepa-rately, by comparison with the GrayScale for Staining (AATCC EvaluationProcedure 2), the AATCC 9-Step Chro-matic Transference Scale (AATCC Eval-AATCC Test Method 163-2013Colorfastness: Dye Transfer in Storage; Fabric-to-FabricCopyright 2013 American Association of Textile C
22、hemists and ColoristsAATCC Technical Manual/2014 TM 163-2013 297uation Procedure 8) or Instrumental As-sessment of Degree of Staining (AATCCEvaluation Procedure 12), and record thenumerical rating that corresponds to theappropriate one on either of them. Recordwhich scale was used.8.2 If a change in
23、 color is noted in anyof the test specimens, rate such changewith AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1,Gray Scale for Color Change, or AATCCEvaluation Procedure 7, Instrumental As-sessment of a Change in Color of a TestSpecimen, and record the numerical rat-ing that corresponds to the appropriateone on the
24、Gray Scale.9. Report9.1 Identify the white fabric used in thesandwich (see 5.4 and 11.6).9.2 Report the moisture pickup if otherthan 100-110% (see 11.3).9.3 Report the grade for staining ofeach of the fibers in the multifiber fabric,as well as on the white swatch used in thetest, and the rating scal
25、e used.9.4 Report the grade for color changein any of the test specimens, and the eval-uation procedure used (see 11.7.2).10. Precision and Bias (see 11.7)10.1 Interlaboratory Data. An inter-laboratory comparison was run in 1982 inwhich samples from two different textilematerials were tested in each
26、 of four lab-oratories, each material having five dif-ferent finishes. Both the AATCC 9-StepChromatic Transference Scale and theGray Scale for Staining were used and acorrelation within one unit was estab-lished between laboratories.10.2 Precision. Based on the observa-tions described in 10.1 and on
27、 generalpractice in the trade, a lot or consignmentis generally considered as having a ratingthat is significantly worse than a speci-fied value when a specimen from the lotor consignment has a rating of dye trans-fer that is more than one unit below thespecified rating on the Gray Scale forStaining
28、.10.3 Bias. The true value of dye trans-fer can only be defined in terms of a testmethod. Within this limitation, thismethod has no known bias.11. Notes11.1 For potential equipment informationpertaining to this test method, please visitthe online AATCC Buyers Guide at http:/www.aatcc.org/bg. AATCC p
29、rovides the pos-sibility of listing equipment and materials soldby its Corporate members, but AATCC doesnot qualify, or in any way approve, endorse orcertify that any of the listed equipment ormaterials meets the requirements in its testmethods.11.2 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box12215, Research Tria
30、ngle Park NC 27709; tel:+1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:ordersaatcc.org; web site: www.aatcc.org.11.3 With some fabrics and constructions,100% pickup causes a dripping wet condition.For those materials, use the highest pickupthat is possible without water dripping fromthe specimen when
31、 it is suspended.11.4 If any temperature and/or time otherthan those specified in 7.2 are used, report thechange and reason for same.11.5 For very critical evaluation and in caseof arbitration, rating must be based on the geo-metric gray scale for evaluating staining.11.6 All materials are not affec
32、ted equally.Results obtained by the use of any one testprocedure should not be representative ofthose of any other test procedure unless thedegree of quantitative correlation for a givenmaterial has been established. In any event,the test procedure should be described in amaterial specification.11.7
33、 The precision of this test method is de-pendent on the combined variability of thematerial being tested, the test method itself,and the evaluation procedure utilized.11.7.1 The precision statement in Section10 was developed from results obtained by vi-sual evaluations (EP 2 and EP 8).11.7.2 It is e
34、xpected that the use of instru-mental evaluation (EP 7 or EP 12) will resultin greater precision than that obtained from vi-sual evaluations.11.8 CAUTION: It has been reported thatthe results for staining obtained by thismethod on fabrics dyed to dark shades (navy,black, etc.) that contain a combina
35、tion of poly-ester and spandex, or their blends, may notshow the full staining propensity of such fab-rics in consumer use. It is, therefore, recom-mended that the staining results obtained bythis test not be used for the acceptance testingof such fabrics.Copyright 2013 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
