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1、1. New York is a city of things unnoticed. It is a city with cats sleeping under parked cars, two stone armadillos crawling up St. Patricks Cathedral, and thousands of ants creeping on top of the Empire State Building. The ants probably were carried there by winds or birds, but nobody is sure; nobod

2、y in New York knows any more about the ants than they do about the panhandler who takes taxis to the Bowery; or the dapper man who picks trash out of Sixth Avenue trash cans; or the medium in the West Seventies who claims, Im clairvoyant, clairaudient and clairsensuous.纽约拥有众多不为人注意的事物。在这个城市有猫睡在停泊的车下,

3、两只犰狳攀上圣帕特里克教堂,还有成千的蚂蚁爬上帝国大厦的楼顶。那些蚂蚁或许是被风或者鸟带上去的,可谁也说不准。在纽约没有人了解蚂蚁,就像他们不知道那个乞丐去保利 区乞讨时乘的是出租车;还有那个衣冠楚楚的家伙专门在第 6 大街从垃圾筒里捡垃圾;还有西 70 街的那位灵媒宣称:“我无所不见、无所不闻、无所不觉。 ”2. New York is a city for eccentrics and a center for odd bits of information. New Yorkers blink twenty-eight times a minute, but forty when ten

4、se. Most popcorn chewers at Yankee Stadium stop chewing momentarily just before the pitch. Gumchewers on Macys escalators stop chewing momentarily just before they, get off to concentrate on the last step. Coins, paper clips, ball-point pens, and little girls pocketbooks are found by work-men when t

5、hey clean the sea lions pool at the Bronx Zoo.纽约是一个古怪者的天堂,是奇事异闻的中心。纽约人每分钟眨 28 次眼睛,但在感到紧张时则眨 40 次。在扬基体育馆, 嚼爆米花的观众们在投球前大多会暂时停止咀嚼。在美茜百货店的自动扶梯上,吃口香糖的人们也会在下最后一级时暂时停止 咀嚼。布朗克斯动物园的工人们在清理海狮池则捞出硬币、回形针、圆珠笔和小姑娘的小皮夹。3. A Park Avenue doorman has parts of three bullets in his head there since World War I. Several

6、young gypsy daughters, influenced by television and literacy, are running away from home because they dont want to grow up and become fortune-tellers. Each month a hundred pounds of hair are delivered to Louis Feder on 545 Fifth Avenue, where blond hairpieces are made from German womens hair; brunet

7、te hairpieces from Italian womens hair; but no hairpieces from American womens hair which, says Mr. Feder, is weak from too frequent rinses and permanents.帕克街一位门房的脑袋里有 3 颗子弹的碎片它们从第一次世界大战起就留在那里了。还有几个年轻的吉普赛人的女儿 受了电视和文化的影响,她们生怕长大,生怕会变成算命的,于是离家出走。每个月,有 100 磅头发运到第五大街 545 号的路 易斯费达的店里。在那儿,德国女人的头发用来做金色假发,意大

8、利女人的头发用来做棕色假发。但是,从来不用美国女人的头发做假发,因为费达先生说,美国女人洗头太勤,烫发太多,因此发质太弱。4. Some of New Yorks best informed men are elevator operators, who rarely talk, but always Listen like doormen. Sardis doormen listen to the comments made by Broadways first-nighters walking by after the last act. They listen closely. They

9、 listen carefully. Within ten minutes they can tell you which shows will flop and which will be hits.在纽约,消息最灵通的要算电梯操作工了。和门房一样,他们说话不多,但时常注意听。每当百老汇某场戏剧的首演结束,莎尔蒂剧院的门房就会聆听散场观众路过时的对话。他们听得很关注,听得很仔细。十分钟内他们就能告诉你哪出戏会失败, 哪出戏将走红。5. On Broadway each evening a big, dark, 1948 Rolls-Royce pulls into Forty-sixth S

10、treet and out hop two little ladies armed with Bibles and signs reading, “The Damned Shall Perish.“ These ladies proceed to stand on the corner screaming at the multitudes of Broadway sinners, sometimes until three a.m., when their chauffeur in the Rolls picks them up and drives them back to Westche

11、ster.在百老汇, 每天傍晚都会有一辆黑色的 1948 年的大劳斯劳埃斯轿车开进第 56 街从车里跳出来两位小个子女士, 手持圣经和标语,标语上写着:“遭神咒的必亡。 ”两位女士接着站在街角,朝着百老汇的芸芸罪人们叫喊,有时直到凌晨 3 点。 这时司机会开着那辆劳斯劳埃斯来接她们,将她们送回威斯切斯特。6. By this time Fifth Avenue is deserted by all but a few strolling insomniacs, some cruising cabdrivers, and a group of sophisticated females who

12、stand in store windows all night and day wearing cold, perfect smiles. Like sentries they line Fifth Avenue these window mannequins who gaze onto the quiet street with tilted heads and pointed toes and long rubber fingers reaching for cigarettes that arent there.此时,第 5 大街已是了无人迹只有几个失眠的人在闲逛,和几辆出租车在游弋。

13、还有一些神情肃然的女性,整天整夜肃立在商店橱窗内,脸上挂着冷漠、完美的笑容。她们像哨兵似的,沿着第 5 大街排列着这些橱窗模特儿,凝视着静谧的街头,搔首弄姿。她们有着修长的脚趾,长长的橡皮手指向前伸着,仿佛想接那根本不存在的香烟。7. At five a.m., Manhattan is a town of tired trumpet players and homeward-bound bartenders. Pigeons control Park Avenue and strut unchallenged in the middle of the street. This is Manh

14、attans mellowest hour. Most night people are out of sight but the day people have not yet appeared. Truck drivers and cabs are alert, yet they do not disturb the mood. They do not disturb the abandoned Rockefeller Center, or the motionless night watchmen in the Fulton Fish Market, or the gas-station

15、 attendant sleeping next to Sloppy Louies with the radio on.早上 5 点,曼哈顿属于那些疲惫的小号吹奏手和回家的酒吧侍应。鸽子占据了帕克大街。它们走在马路的中央,如入无人之境。这是曼哈顿最美好的时刻。过夜生活的人大多已经销声匿迹而白天工作的人则尚未出门。卡车和出租车司机们保持着警觉,但他们并不惊扰此时的气氛。他们不惊扰寂寥的洛克菲勒中心,以及福尔顿鱼市场那一动不动的看门人,以及开着收音机,自己倚在斯洛比路易快餐店边上睡着了的加油站服务员。8. At five a.m., the Broadway regulars either hav

16、e gone home or to all-night coffee shops where, under the glaring light, you see their whiskers and wear. And on Fifty-first Street a radio press car is parked at the curb with a photographer who has nothing to do. So he just sits there for a few nights, looks through the windshield and soon becomes

17、 a keen observer of life after midnight.早上 5 点,百老汇的常客们不是回家了,就是在通宵咖啡馆里。在咖啡馆眩目的灯光下,看得见男人的胡须和女人的脂粉。 在第 5 大街,一辆无线电采访车停在路边。车内的摄影记者百无聊赖。他只是连着几夜坐在车内,望着挡风玻璃外的一切。很快,他饶有兴味地观察起午夜后的夜生活来。9. “At one a.m.“ he says, “Broadway is filled with wise guys and with kids coming out of the Astor Hotel in white dinner jacke

18、ts kids who drive to dances in their fathers cars. You also see cleaning ladies going home, always wearing kerchiefs. By two a.m. some of the drinkers are getting out of hand, and this is the hour for bar fights. At three a.m. the last show is over, in the nightclubs, and most of the tourists and ou

19、t-of-town buyers are back in hotels. And small-time comedians are criticizing big-time comedians in Hansons Drugstore. At four a.m., after the bars close, you see the drunks come out and also the pimps and prostitutes, who take advantage of drunks. At five a.m., though, it is mostly quiet. New York

20、is an entirely different city at five a.m.“早上 1 点, ”他说, “百老汇到处是些聪明人,还有不少小伙子穿着白色的礼服从埃斯特宾馆出来这些小伙子是开着父亲的车来跳舞的。你还可以看见回家的清洁女工,她们总是头戴头巾。到 2 点时,有些饮酒的人开始失去控制。这是酒吧 殴斗的时刻。3 点,夜总会最后一场演出结束了。这时,大多数游客以及外地来的购物者们已经回到了酒店里。在汉森药房里, 默默无闻的喜剧演员会对喜剧明星们大加抨击。4 点,酒吧打烊了,你看得见醉汉们走出来,还有拉皮条的和妓女们占醉汉的便宜。然而,到了早上 5 点,一切大多静寂下来。凌晨 5 点的

21、纽约成了一个完全不同的城市。10. At six a.m., the early workers begin to push up from the subways. The traffic begins to move down Broadway like a river. And Mrs. Mary Woody jumps out of bed, dashes to her office and phones dozens of sleepy New Yorkers to say in a cheerful voice, rarely appreciated: “Good morning.

22、 Time to get up.“ For twenty years, as an operator of Western Unions Wake-Up Service, Mrs. Woody has gotten millions out of bed.早上 6 点,早起的工人们开始从地铁里拥挤着走上来。车辆人群如河流般流淌在百老汇。而玛丽伍迪太太则从床上跳起来,冲进办公室,给几十位睡意朦胧的纽约人打电话。她那欢快的嗓音很少得到人们的赞赏:“早上好。该起床啦。 ”二十年来,伍迪太太是西部联合电信公司唤醒服务的服务员。她已经将几百万人叫醒起床。11. By seven a.m., a flor

23、idly robust little man, looking very Parisian in a blue beret and turtleneck sweater, moves in a hurried step along Park Avenue visiting his wealthy lady friends making certain that each is given a brisk, before-breakfast rubdown. The uniformed doormen greet him warmly and call him either “Biz“ or “

24、Mac“ because he is Biz Mackey, a ladies masseur extraordinaire. He never reveals the names of his customers, but most of them are middle-aged and rich. He visits each of them in their apartments, and has special keys to their bedrooms; he is often the first man they see in the morning, and they lie

25、in bed waiting for him.早晨 7 点,一个穿着花哨、身材敦实的小个子男人步履匆忙地走在帕克大街上。他戴一顶蓝色贝雷帽,穿一件高领毛线衣, 看起来像个巴黎人。他正赶去造访那几位有钱的女性友人他保证每一位都能在早餐前轻快地接受一次按摩。身着制服的门房们热情地向他打招呼。他们要么管他叫“比兹” ,要么叫“麦克”,因为他的名字是比兹麦凯,是一位专为女性按摩的按摩师。他从不透露客户的姓名。她们大多是些有钱的中年女性。他逐一来到她们的寓所中。他有特殊的钥匙,能够进入她们的卧室。他常常是她们早上见的第一个男人。她们就躺在床上,等着他。12. The doormen that Biz p

26、asses each morning are generally an obliging, endlessly articulate group of sidewalk diplomats who list among their friends some of Manhattans most powerful men, most beautiful women and snootiest poodles. More often than not, the doormen are big, slightly Gothic in design, and the possessors of eye

27、s sharp enough to spot big tippers a block away in the years thickest fog. Some East Side doormen are as proud as grandees, and their uniforms, heavily festooned, seem to come from the same tailor who outfitted Marshal Tito.比兹每天早上走过的那些门房,通常是一群彬彬有礼、滔滔不绝的人。他们是门口路边的外交家。曼哈顿最有势力的男人、 最漂亮的女人,还有最势利的哈巴狗都被他们视

28、作朋友。门房常常个子高高的,举止显得有点哥特式风格。他们有一双敏锐的眼睛,能够透过一年中最浓的雾,看到远在一个街区以外的地方谁给小费最阔绰。一些西区的门房就像西班牙大公一样倨傲, 而他们的制服缀满花饰,简直就好像是为铁托元帅制衣的同一个裁缝制作的。13. Shortly after seven-thirty each morning hundreds of people are lined along Forty-second Street waiting for the eight a.m. opening of the ten movie houses that stand almost

29、shoulder-to-shoulder between Times Square and Eighth Avenue. Who are these people who go to the movies at eight a.m.? They are the citys insomniacs, night watchmen, and people who cant go home, do not want to go home, or have no home. They are derelicts, homosexuals, cops, hacks, truck drivers, clea

30、ning ladies and restaurant men who have worked all night. They are also alcoholics who are waiting at eight a.m. to pay forty cents for a soft seat and to sleep in the dark smoky theatre. And yet, aside from being smoky, each of the Times Squares theatres has a special quality, or lack of quality, a

31、bout it. At the Victory Theatre one finds horror films, while at the Times Square Theatre they feature only cowboy films. There are first-run films for forty cents at the Lyric, while at the Selwyn there are always second-run films for thirty cents. But if you go to the Apollo Theatre you will see,

32、in addition to foreign films, people in the lobby talking with their hands. These are deaf-and-dumb movie fans who patronize the Apollo because they read the subtitles. The Apollo probably has the biggest deaf-and-dumb movie audience in the world.7 点半才过一会儿,几百个人就在 42 街排着队,等候 8 点钟电影院开门。在时代广场和第 8 大街之间,

33、 10 家电影院几乎比肩接踵地排列着。这些 8 点钟就去看电影的是什么人呢?他们是这个城市中失眠的人、夜间值班工,还有那些不能回家、不想回家,或者无家可归的人。他们中有整夜干活的穷人、同性恋者、警察、出租车司机、卡车司机、清洁女工和餐馆工人。其中还有酗酒者,他们到 8 点就等着,付 4 毛钱,换一个柔软的座位,在暗暗的烟雾腾腾的电影院里睡上一觉。但是,除了烟雾缭绕之外,时代广场的剧院还有一大特质,或者,也可以说它们没有特质。在胜利剧院,人们可以看恐怖片,而在时代广场剧院则只上映牛仔片。莱利克影院花 4 毛钱可以看首映片,而在赛而温影院总是放映旧片,票价 3 毛。如果到阿波罗剧院,那么, 除了外

34、国电影外,你还能看到大厅里用手说话的人们。这些是聋哑的影迷,他们常来阿波罗剧院,因为在这里他们可以看电影字幕。阿波罗剧院可能拥有世界上最多的聋哑电影观众。14. New York is a city of 38,000 cabdrivers, 10,000 bus drivers, but only one chauffeur who has a chauffeur. The wealthy chauffeur can be seen driving up Fifth Avenue each morning, and his name is Roosevelt Zanders. He earn

35、s $100,000 a year, is a gentleman of impeccable taste and, although he owns a $23,000 Rolls-Royce, does not scorn his friends who own Bentleys. For $150 a day, Mr.Zanders will drive anyone anywhere in his big, silver Rolls. Diplomats patronize him, models pose next to him, and each day he receives c

36、ables from around the world urging that he be waiting at Idlewild, on the docks, or outside the Plaza Hotel. Sometimes at night, however, he is too tired to drive anymore. So Bob Clarke, his chauffeur, takes over and Mr.Zanders relaxes in the back.纽约有 38,000 名出租车司机、10,000 名公共汽车司机,还有一位有自己的私人司机的私人司机。每

37、天早上,人们可以看见这位有钱的司机在第 5 大街上驱车。他的名字是罗斯福赞德斯。他一年挣 10,000 美元,是一位趣味上无可挑剔的绅士。 而且,尽管拥有一辆价值 23,000 美元的劳斯莱斯,可他并不看不起那些开本特利车的朋友们。一天 150 美元,赞德斯先生就能用他那辆银色的大劳斯莱斯车,将任何人送往任何地方。外交官们常常聘请他,模特儿们在他身边搔首弄姿。每天他都接到世界各地发来的电报,要他在爱德华尔德机场、码头,或者广场酒店外等候。但有时,到了晚上,他太累了,开不动车了。于是他的私人司机,鲍伯克拉克便接手开车,而赞德斯先生则在车后座休息。15. New York is a town of

38、 3,000 bootblacks whose brushes and rhythmic rag-snaps can be heard up and down Manhattan from midmorning to midnight. They dodge cops, survive rianstorms, and thrive in the Empire State Building as Well as on the Staten Island Ferry. They usually wear dirty shoes.纽约有 3,000 名擦鞋匠。从上午到午夜,在曼哈顿,四处都能听见他们

39、的鞋刷声和那有节奏的抖拉擦鞋布的声音。他们躲避警察,历经风雨,在帝国大厦以及斯塔顿岛摆渡船上生意兴隆。他们穿的鞋常常是很脏的。16. New York is a city of headless men who sit obscurely in subway booths all day and night selling tokens to people in a hurry. Each Weekday more than 4,500,000 riders pass these money changers who seem to have neither heads, faces, nor

40、 personalities only fingers. Except when giving directions, their vocabulary consists largely of three words: “How many, please ?”纽约有一些看不见脑袋的人。他们隐晦地整天整夜坐在地铁售票处,向行色匆匆的人们出售车票。每个工作日,4,500, 000 名旅客在这些看上去没头、没脸、没有个性、而只看得见手指的换钱者前面走过。除非指路,他们所说的话大多只有 4 个字: “请问几张”17. In New York there are 200 chestnut vendors

41、, and they average $25 on a good day peddling soft, warm chestnuts. Like many vendors, the chestnut men do not own their own rigs they borrow or rent them from pushcart makers such as David Amerman.在纽约,有 200 名卖炒栗子的商贩。生意好的日子,他们靠叫卖又软又热的栗子,每天能挣 25 美元。和许多沿街商贩一样,这 些卖栗子并不拥有自己的推车他们的推车是从像戴维埃默曼那样的制车商那儿借来或租来。

42、18. Mr. Amerman, with offices opposite a defunct public bath-house on the Lower East Side, is New Yorks master builder of pushcarts. His father and grandfather before him were push-cart makers, and the family has long been a household word among the citys most discriminating junkmen, fruit vendors a

43、nd hot-dog peddlers.埃默曼先生的办公室位于低部东区一所废弃的公共浴室对面。他是纽约的推车制作高手。在他之前,他的父亲和祖父都是推车制造商。在这座城市最为挑剔的捡垃圾的、卖水果和卖热狗的人的心目里,他的家族是一个家喻户晓的名字。19. In New York there are 500 mediums, ranging from semi-trance to trance to deep-trance types. Most of them live in New Yorks West Seventies and Eighties, and on Sundays some o

44、f these blocks are communicating with the dead, vibrating to trumpets, and solving all problems.纽约有 500 个灵媒,种类有半附体、附体和深度附体不一。他们大多住在纽约的西 70 街和 80 街。每逢星期天,这里有几个街区便和死者沟通,号声震天动地,所有疑难问题也迎刃而解。20. The Manhattan Telephone Directory has 776,300 names, of which 3,316 are Smith, 2,835 are Brown, 2,444 are Will

45、iams, 2,070 are Cohen and one is Mike Krasilovsky. Anyone who doubts this last fact has only to look at the top of page 876, where, in large black letters, is this sign: “There is only one Mike Krasilovsky. Sterling 3-1990.“曼哈顿电话号码簿上有 776,300 个名字,其中有 3,316 个史密斯、2,835 个布朗、2,444 个威廉、2,070 个科恩另 外还有一个麦克

46、克拉斯洛夫斯基。如果有人怀疑这最后一点,只要看一看第 876 页页首处,用大号黑体字印出的这句话:“天下只有一个麦克克拉斯洛夫斯基。斯特林区 3-1990”。21. In New York the Fifth Avenue Lingerie shop is on Madison Avenue; the Madison Pet Shop is on Lexington Avenue; the Park Avenue Florist is on Madison Avenue, and the Lexington Hand Laundry is on Third Avenue. New York i

47、s the home of 120 pawnbrokers and it is where Bishop Sheens brother, Dr. Sheen, shares an office with one Dr. Bishop.在纽约,第 5 大街女内衣商店坐落在麦迪逊街,而麦迪逊宠物店位于莱克星顿街;帕克街花店是在麦迪逊街;莱克星顿手洗店则又是在第 3 大街。纽约有 120 家当铺。在纽约,毕晓普希恩的兄弟,希恩医生和一位毕晓普医生在一个办公室上班。22. New York is a town of thirty tattooists where interest in mankind

48、 is skin-deep, but whose impressions usually last a life-time. Each day the tattooists go pecking away over acres of anatomy. And in downtown Manhattan, Stanley Moskowitz, a scion of a distinguished family of bowery skin-peckers, does a grand business.纽约有 30 位纹身师。他们对人类的兴趣真是肤浅,但他们在人身上留下的印记却常常印刻一生。每天,

49、纹身师们要纹刻几英亩的人体。在曼哈顿市中心,斯坦利莫斯科维兹是鲍华利街区纹身世家的一位传人。他的生意十分兴隆。23. When it rains in Manhattan, automobile traffic is slow, dates are broken and, in hotel lobbies, people slump behind newspapers or walk aimlessly about with no place to sit, nobody to talk to, nothing to do. Taxis are harder to get; department stores do between fifteen and twenty five percent less business, and the monkeys in the Bronx Zoo, having no audience, slouch grumpily in their cages looking more bored than the lobby-loungers.曼哈顿下雨的

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