1、CHAPTER XIX第十九章SOJOURN AT NINGPOMODES OF PREPARING TEA FOR MARKET暂住宁波制茶On the twenty-first of September we received a letter from Dr. McCartee, informing us that two vessels at Yentai were on the point of sailing, the one for Hong-kong, the other for Amoy, in both of which we were kindly offered a p
2、assage down the coast. He urged our accepting the invitation of one or the other, and without delay trying the effect of change and rest upon my health.9 月 21 日，Dr Mc Cartee 来信通知我们两艘在烟台的船将要启航，一只开往香港，另一只开往厦门，这两艘船都十分贴心地为我们提供了免费的船费。Dr Mc Cartee 催促我们选其中任意一艘，接受其邀请，以免影响我的身体状况，延误治愈。After consulting with th
3、e other missionaries, and having earnestly asked direction from Him who so often, in our lives, had verified the promise, “In all thy ways acknowledge Him, and He shall direct thy paths,” we decided to start the next morning for Yentai.我们咨询了其他的传教士，并真切地向其中一位传教士打听了航行方向。他通常向我们保证，他认得所有的路，并能够指引我们，因而我们决定次
4、日前往烟台。After a few hours of busy preparations, in which we were assisted by our friends, both foreign and native, we bade good-by to Tung-chow. We expected to be gone only a month or two, but , notwithstanding this, our Chinese friends, especially the girls and the women, seemed to feel our going ver
5、y much, and many tears were shed.在当地人和外国朋友的帮助下，经过几个小时的仓促准备，我们告别了同州。我们只离开一两个月，尽管如此，那些中国朋友，尤其是姑娘和女士们，都依依不舍，潸然泪下。We left home at nine oclock in the morning, I in a shen-tz or mule-litter, and Mr. Nevius on horseback. By seven at evening we reached Sing-tien, the village where we stopped on our first jo
6、urney to Tung-chow. The inn seemed forbidding in the last degree, and the air was so stifling that my lungs almost refused to breathe it. I was greatly relieved when Mr. Nevius suggested continuing our journey by night. He left his horse, and mounted a donkey which knew the road so perfectly as to b
7、e quite capable of acting as our guide. The owner of the donkey assured us that if we would allow it to have its own way we need have no fear of losing the road; and so, through all the hours of that dark night, we followed our wise little leader up hill and down, through fields and over streams, in
8、 narrow, rocky, and precipitous paths; sometimes on the edge of chasms and precipices, without ever one mistake. Brave little donkey! So patient and watchful. I slept occasionally, notwithstanding the jolting, and was certainly not more fatigued than if we had passed the night in that miserable inn.
9、 Mr. Nevius, however, was completely tired out. At four oclock, just at daybreak, we forded a small river. I enjoyed the strangeness, almost grotesqueness, of our night journey; but I do not think I should recommend it to persons generally, especially invalids. I found myself so prostrated as to be
10、obliged to keep my bed most of the time for days afterwards.我们于早晨九点出门，我坐在 shen-tz 或骡车上， Mr. Nevius 骑着马。晚上七点，我们到达辛店,这是我们首次去同州途中稍作停留的一个小村庄。旅店环境极其恶劣，空气凝重闷热，甚至使我喘不上起来。当 Mr. Nevius 建议说继续赶夜路时，我对此极为欣慰。他丢下了那匹马，换做了一头驴，这头驴对路况十分了解，甚至于能当我们的向导了。驴的主人向我们保证，如果我们让它自己摸路，我们就不必担心迷路了；因而，之后的那段夜路，我们跟着这头聪明的向导翻山野岭，穿过平原，跨过小溪
11、，走在乱石丛生，狭窄陡峭的小径上，又是沿途在深渊悬崖上，它引路一贯正确，从不折回，既耐心又谨慎，真是头勇敢的小驴啊！尽管道路颠簸，我还是时不时睡着了，与留宿于那环境恶劣的旅馆相比，我并没有感到十分疲倦。然而，Mr. Nevius 早已筋疲力尽了。早晨四点破晓时分，我们趟过了一条小河。我十分享受赶夜路时的那种陌生与诡异的感觉；但是我认为我不应该建议每个人都赶夜路，尤其对那些病弱者们。我感觉自己已衰弱无力，接下来的日子里只能卧床不起了。We reached the McCartees at six oclock, and were glad to find our friends all well
12、. Neither of the vessels was to sail for several days; so we need not have hastened our leaving Tung-chow as we did.早上六点，我们到达了 Mc Cartees,很高兴见到朋友们都安然无恙。仅几天内，这两艘船都不会启航，因而我们不必像之前那样急着离开同州。It was decided that for several reasons it would be best for us to accept the invitation of Capt. King, of the “Agn
13、es,” whose wife, a very agreeable American lady, was with him. They were exceedingly kind and hospitable, and had it not been for sea-sickness and ill health, the voyage would have been a very pleasant one. 出于种种原因，我们最好还是接受了 king 船长的邀请，同他一起的妻子是个平易近人的美国人。他们亲切友好，热情好客，倘若不是因为晕船，以及疾病缠身，这次旅途将是充满乐趣的。The rec
14、ords of the journeyings of an invalid in search of health are not often very entertaining, and I shall not presume upon the patience of my readers by giving my experience at much length. We spent several weeks at Amoy, where we were most hospitably entertained by Mr. and .Mrs. Cowie, of the English
15、Presbyterian Mission, and received many kindnesses from other missionaries, both English and American. An excellent physician, who was called in to see me soon after our arrival, took a discouraging view of remaining longer in China, and return to the United States immediately,. I did not improved a
16、s I had hoped from the change of scene and air; but we did not feel prepared to decided at once to leave China.关于旅途中病弱者恢复健康的记录，通常不怎么有趣，我不相信读者们有着耐心听我这般具体的描述。我们在厦门停留了几周，并受到英国长老教会的 Mr.Cowie 夫妇的热情款待，也受到了来自英国及美国传教士的友好招待。我们一到岸，就请了以为医术高明的内科医生为我诊断，她说我的身体状况不容乐观。并催促我们放弃仍留在中国的想法，立马回美国去。我寄希望于环境，空气质量的改善，但我的身体状况依
17、旧不佳，但是我们也没有打算立马离开中国。As you enter the harbor, Amoy presents a beautiful appearance. Most of the foreign residents live on a small, rocky island called Kulong-su, and as every one has chosen as high and airy a building site as possible, and as the houses are usually large, when seen from the bay they
18、show to good advantage. Amoy is also an island. The town itself is the most miserable Chinese city I ever saw. The streets are narrow and filthy. The American missionaries all resided on the Amoy side, but their houses were not considered healthy; indeed, they could not have been so in such an unfav
19、orable location.一踏入厦门海港，就呈现出一片美丽景象。大多数外国人都居住在一个叫 kulong-su 的多是狭小的小岛上。因为人们都尽量将住址选在海拔较高且通风透气的地方，并且房子通常都宽大明亮，所以从海港向上望去，他们地势优越，美丽壮观。厦门本身也是座岛屿，这座城镇是我见过的最为糟糕的中国城市。街道狭小拥挤，污秽满地。美国传教士都居住在厦门这一边，但他们的房子也不怎么干净，事实上，再这样一个恶劣的环境里，他们不可能变得干净。The missions at Amoy have been, in some respects, more favored than any other
20、s in the country, They have large, self-sustaining churches, and Christianity has taken deep hold there. Mr. Nevius was glad to have the opportunity of familiarizing himself with their mode of operations, and of witnessing its results. He visited the churches in the city, and also accompanied some o
21、f the missionaries to their distant out-stations.在某些方面，厦门的传教工作要比其他城市更有利。这里建有宽敞明亮，自给自足的教堂，并且基督教已在这里影响深远。Mr. Nevius 很高兴有机会接触他们传教的运行模式，并见证其结果。他到访了城市里的几座教堂，陪同一些传教士去了他们偏远的分教堂。After leaving Amoy, we spent a few days in Hong-kong, where we were the guests of my old friend Mr.Seiden. From there we went to C
22、anton. Mr. Preston, of our mission, was a classmate of my husband in Princeton; he went to China shortly after we did, and it was delightful for them to meet again after their ten yearsseperation.离开厦门后，我们在香港呆了几天，老朋友 Mr.Speiden 接待了我们。从那儿出发，我们又去了广州。我们传教时遇见了 Mr. Preston,他是我丈夫在普林斯顿大学时的同学。在我们来中国不久，他也去了中国
23、。分割十年之久，能再次重逢，他们都十分喜悦。Canton is a beautiful city, very large and well built, superior to any Chinese town I had before visited, except Hang-chow, as it was before the rebels captured it. Although foreigners have resided for many years in the suburbs of Canton, it is only recently that the city prope
24、r has been opened. Formerly, no “outside barbarian” dared to venture within the gates; well knowing that he would probably lose his head; in consequence of his temerity, should he attempt it. Now there seems no difference in that respect between this and other cities.广州市做美丽的城市，雄伟壮观，建筑精美，比我之前所到访的中国城市
25、都要优越。但除了杭州，因为它之前曾被反叛者统治过。尽管外国人已经在广州郊区居住了许多年，但只是最近，这座城市才完全开放。之前， “城外的野蛮人”都不敢冒险进入城内，因为他们清楚地知道，他们冒失地大胆闯入的后果有可能被砍头。现在，在这方面，这座城市与其它城市似乎已没有什么区别了。Although it has not, thus far, proved a very successful mission-station, there have been, of late years, some more encouraging indications. Mr. Nevius was partic
26、ularly pleased with Mr. Prestons chapel services, which were well attended by a very respectable class of persons, while Mr. Preston entered into his work with unusual heartiness and spirit.尽管到目前为止，广州并不是一座传教十分成功的城市，但未来几年，将会出现更多的于是美好发展的迹象。Mr. Nevius 对 Mr. Preston 的教堂里的宗教仪式特别满意，前来参加的是些体面有身份的人，Mr. Pres
27、ton 则以非比寻常的热心与激情进行传教。The boarding-schools of Mrs. Bonny and Mrs. Happer interested me greatly. The latter had been in China since she was a child, and was, consequently, but also in the manners and habits of the people; and her influence over them was very great. Her school I thought a model for all
28、 others, at least in many respects, I noticed, with particular pleasure, the attention she paid to the manners of her pupils, never allowing them to transgress their own rules of propriety, or to fall into habits which would be considered rude among their own countrywomen. Her influence over them re
29、ligiously was also very great. She entered into their joys and sorrows, trials and temptations, in a most natural and interested way; and they felt that in her they had a faithful, loving friend.Mr. Bonny 和 Mrs.Happer 开办的寄宿学校引起我浓厚的兴趣。Mrs.Happer 自她幼年就呆在中国，因此不仅精通汉语，而且对人的举止习惯也颇为了解，她对学生们的影响十分深远。我认为，至少在许
30、多方面，她开办的学校可称为其它学校的典范。怀着特别的乐趣，我注意到她十分注重学生的行为举止，决不允许他们违背礼仪行为准则，或沾染上上他们本国所公认的粗鲁的坏习惯。在宗教方面，她对学生们的影响也很深远。她以最为自然有趣的方式，感受着她们的快乐，悲伤，焦虑和诱惑；学生们把她当作是一位忠诚，爱意无限的朋友。Another lady whose acquaintance I made on that visit was Mrs. Condit, who was loved and admired by every one. She was a devoted missionary, and made
31、excellent progress in the language, both written and spoken; and by her winning manners was particularly fitted to be useful among Chinese females.在那次拜访中所结识的另一位女士是 Mrs. Condit，她受到人们的喜爱的敬仰。她是位虔诚的传教士，在书面表达及口头交流上去的杰出进步，她那彬彬有礼的举止在于中国女性交往中十分受用。Within a year or two after our visit, both of these ladies, s
32、o loved and useful, were removed by death.我们拜访过后的一两年里，这些令人敬爱且贡献巨大的女士们都相继去世了。Among the most valuable agencies of the Canton Mission has been the hospital, for many years under the judicious management of Dr. Ker. I am sure his faithful and laborious efforts in connection with it must yet meet with an
33、 abundant reward.广州教区最有价值的机构要数医院，多年来一直处于 Dr. Ker 的管理中。我肯定他为这医院付出的忠心及努力一定得到了丰硕的回报。We spent two or three weeks with our friends in Canton, the pleasure of the visit marred only by my poor health, which made even the privilege of meeting persons whose acquaintance I was so glad to form, a very wearines
34、s.在广州，与朋友们小聚了两三周，由于我虚弱的身体状况，破坏了此次拜访的兴致，使我疲惫不堪。但是却赋予我特殊的照顾有幸结束时那些我渴望交往的人。In the latter part of December we sailed for Shanghai in an American steamer called the Foh-kien. Her accommodations were ample, and the most bountiful provisions were made for the table, which , however, was very poorly patroni
35、zed; for we sailed against a heavy monsoon, and the motion of the vessel was such as to produce sea-sickness of the worst character. I was ill nearly all the way, being seldom able to leave my berth. It was a welcome relief when we stopped a few hours at Fuchow. This also gave us a glimpse of the pl
36、easant circle of missionaries there, who, as elsewhere, were hard and successfully at work. At that time their prospects seemed encouraging, but a few weeks later there was a singular outburst of feeling against them, a furious mob quite demolishing their churches, and ill-treating the native Christ
37、ians.12 月末，我们乘上一只名为 Foh-kien 的美式汽船前往上海。船上的住宿十分完备，餐桌食物丰富多样，但是却很少人光顾；因为我们正迎着季风航行，船只摇摆动荡，使体质稍弱的人一路晕船。我几乎一路都病怏怏的，很少离开铺位。我们达到福州时，停留了几个时辰稍作休息，这是我们都欣慰地松了口气。我们有幸看到那里一群热心的传教士，同别处的一样工作努力，成果丰硕。那时，他们的发展前景似乎还充满希望，但几周后，爆发了一场反抗情绪。一个愤怒的暴徒摧毁了教堂，并虐待当地的基督徒。We reached Shanghai on the fourth of December, and went at onc
38、e to the house of Mr. Gamble, my fellow-passenger from the United States, in the N. B. Palmer, seven years before. He was occupying rooms over a church situated in a busy street outside the city walls, and also somewhat removed from the foreign settlement. There being scarcely any native families ne
39、ar, it was rather an unpromising location for missionary work, at least among the women; but as our host was still a bachelor, this mattered less. Close to the church was the press where Mr. Gamble kept a large corps of Chinese workmen employed in printing the Scriptures and religious books for miss
40、ionaries all over China, besides other miscellaneous work.12 月 4 日我们抵达了上海，并立马拜访了 Mr. Gamble，他来自美国，是七年前 N.B Palmer 的通行乘客。他在城外奢华的街道上坐落的教堂内拥有几间房，并移出了外国人集聚区。那附近几乎没有当地居民，因而不是进行传教工作的最佳选址，至少不利于对妇女们进行传教，但是由于我们的住持仍单身，那也就无关紧要了。教堂旁边是家出版社，在那里，Mr. Gamble 雇佣了一大批中国女工，印刷全国的传教手稿、宗教书籍及其他各种各样的作品。While at Shanghai, the
41、 late Dr. Henderson, a highly valued Scotch physician, advised us so strongly to return to the United States, and warned us so scarcely felt at liberty to further discuss the matter, though it would have been Mr. Nevius preference, as well as my own, to remain at least a year or two longer in China.
42、在上海时，已故的一位德高望重的苏格兰内科医生 Henderson 强烈建议我们返回美国，并迫切地警告我们过多推迟的危害，使我们不得不进一步讨论此事。尽管依 Mr. Nevius 的意愿，要在中国至少停留一到两年，但这也是我的意愿。A day or two after our arrival, Mr. Gamble had the pleasure of welcoming a much-loved sister from Ireland, who had come to cheer the home and heart of her missionary brother. And a few
43、days later a welcome reinforcement of the Tung-chow mission, Mr. and Mrs. Mateer, and Mr. and Mrs. Corbett, arrived from the United States. Mr. Corbett was very unwell when he reached Shanghai, his illness being apparently due to the miserable diet furnished them on ship-board.在我们抵达上海后的一两天，Mr. Gambl
44、e 欣喜万分地迎来了来自英格兰的受众人喜爱的妹妹，她此次前来是为了鼓舞作为传教士的哥哥。几天后，同州的传教工作进一步开展，Mr. Mateer 夫妇和 Mr. Corbett 夫妇都从美国赶来了。当 Mr. Corbett 抵达上海时，身体十分不佳，很明显，他的病情是由于船上供应的不良餐饮造成的。We hoped their dangers by sea were over when they had reached Shanghai, but shortly before they arrived at Che-foo, the steamer on which they had taken
45、 passage ran aground, and the passengers were obliged to go on shore. They walked for many hours, through snow and sleet, before they found a place of shelter. Then they were received by a Chinese family, who treated them very kindly, giving up their own kangs for them to rest upon, and offering suc
46、h food as their house afforded. A gun-boat went down the next day from Che-foo, and brought them all in safety to their journeys end, at least to Che-foo. Their long overland trip to Tung-chow had still to be made.我们希望他们上海时，乘船的危险已过去，但是在我们到达芝罘前不久，他们所乘的汽船搁浅了，乘客们被迫上了岸。他们徒步数几个时辰，穿过雪地和冰雪，才找到了躲避的地方。之后，一个中
47、国家庭收留了他们，对他们十分亲切友好，并将自己的炕让给他们休息，给他们准备家里现有的食物。次日，一艘开往芝罘的小炮艇把他们安全带到了旅途的终点，至少带到了芝罘，他们仍要继续前往同州。When the question of our return home had been decided, Mr. Nevius concluded to go at once to Ningpo, in order to secure the aid of trained native scholars to assist him in finishing and revising different work
48、s for the press. He felt that he could not leave the country without accomplishing this object, as doing so might involve the loss of years of hard labor.在我们回国的日子定下来时，Mr. Nevius 决定立马去趟宁波，为的是在那些训练有素的当地学者的帮助下，确保完成并修订将要出版的各种数目。他觉得不能为完成目标就离开中国，这样会使他多年的心血与努力前功尽弃。We arrived at Ningpo about the first of th
49、e year 1864. It was both pleasant and sad to be there again. Sometimes the weight of old associations was really oppressive; and we constantly missed the dear familiar faces which used to make Ningpo such a cheerful, happy place. Our mission at that time consisted of Mr. and Mrs. Green, Mr. and Mrs. Morrison, and Mr. Dodd. It seemed strange to find ourselves such “patriarchs”. With one exception, there was not a missionary at Ningpo who was there on our arrival ten years before. Some had removed to other parts of China, or returned to their native countries, but overwork, or more prob
