1、欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟- 1 -鞋业（类）常用术语中英文对照-欧维思鞋业博客 http:/ 阶段P2-P10第二章 技术P7-P15第三章 鞋型转移P16-P17欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟- 2 -第一章：Stage 阶段-欧维思鞋业博客 http:/ I.3.1. Two main sections in Dev. Division 开发的两大部分：1.
2、Development section: explain more in process of new models to make samples in order to introduce market to achieve qty.开发部分：此部分着重于新型体的样品制作，以便可介绍给客户 来争取一定数量的订单。2. Commercialization section: explain more in process of technical after it was developed with Fitting test and Wear test to ensure that all
3、products meet consumers expectations in terms of Fitting, Comfort and Performance.技术部分：开发转移到技术部门，此阶段着重于在开发阶段完成试穿测试, 确保产品在试穿/舒适/功能方面可满足客户的要求后进行的技术工作。I.3.2. Development Stages 开发阶段I.3.2.1. PPR: Pre Prototype Review 初始线条评估1st stage to review all sample products Internally by customer ( Marketing,design
4、er,L.O)For performance shoes, we have Fitting and Wear Test Sample to be sent.* The topics of review are :1. Material 2. Quality 3. Performance4. Price 5. Color 6. Design7. Forecast客人内部（市场销售、设计师、本地客人）对于新鞋型第一阶段之评估。对于功能性鞋型，我们要寄 Fitting test 确信已经订购了所有材料；b. Ask for material price/unit if it is a new one
5、;若为新材料，需要询价；c. Push material ETD, issue MMR( Material Monitor Report );追踪材料交期, 发送材料控制表；d. If material ETD is too late, which will cause a sample delay, find substitute material right away under the approval of customer ;如果材料交期太晚，可能导致样品出货的耽搁，在客户许可下立刻找替代材料；e. Ask supplier for color swatch before mater
6、ial delivery;在材料发货前向厂商索要样版材料；f. Ask supplier for material released report.向厂商索要材料测试通过报告。C. Upper materials arrived 面部材料到达a. Check materials according to customer standard, if not match, reject it and ask supplier to improve and remake and resend right away;根据客户标准检验材料，如果不符合，则打掉，并要求厂商立即改进，重做再送；b. Prep
7、are color swatch card. Ensure all information( material name, supplier,color, description and component name)on swatch card is complete and correct.Ensure all substitute materials are on swatch card.准备色卡。确保色卡上信息（材料名称、供货商、颜色、规格和部件名称）的完整性和正确性，确保所有的替代材料附在色卡上面。欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟欧维思鞋业博客
8、- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟- 5 -D. Order bottom components 采购底部部件a. Check bottom molds existing or not. Track the mold schedule when there is a new mold opened;检查底模是否存在。若开新模具，需要追踪模具进度；b. Place order for every component;定购所有部件；c. Prepare block for testing (only for new mold only).准备测试初胚 (仅针对新模具)。检查
9、底模是否存在。若开新模具，需要追踪模具进度。I.4.3. The Operation of PLM PLM的工作A. SRF 根据样品单检查是否遗漏彩图；b. Check difference between SRF 对照样品单和彩图检查差异；c. Check last No./Size/bottom mold.检查楦头编号/码数/底模。B. Chinese Spec 中文样品单a. Translate SRF to Chinese;把英文样品单翻译成中文样品单；b. Ensure correct translation, correct treatment on material and c
10、omponent, as lamination, printing, embossing, embroidery, no missing component according to pattern.确保翻译正确，以及对材料和部件的正确处理，如贴合、印刷、高周波、电绣等，不能遗漏纸版上的任何部件。C. Pull over tracking and checking 追踪并检查试版鞋a. Use correct material, (if possible), find similar one as an substitution before correct material arrival;
11、尽可能使用正确材料，如耽搁，在材料到达之前找相似材料代替；b. Check stitching procedure if it can be acceptable for production;检查针车程序量产是否可以接受；c. Use correct last, size;使用正确的楦头、码数；d. Check fitting, shape, line up, collar height 欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟- 6 -检查面部斩刀、高周波压模、网印制具和电绣版带的完成时
12、间；b. Check ETC for new bottom mold, cutting die for EVA filler 检查针车，确保针车鞋面的质量，不要偏离中心、整齐，注意清洁度；c. Check assembly, ensure upper matches bottom well, no over cement, no rocking, no off center, no other damages, keep sample clean, in pai橡胶.检查成型，确保面底部配合良好，不要溢胶、摇晃、偏离中心，没有其它破损，保持样品清洁，配双好。I.4.4. Sample Dist
13、ribution 样品销售SMS1 销样一SMS2 销样二I.4.5. Pre-production preparation 量产前准备A. SAS型体量产确认单a. At this stage, LO development, Production, and HQ Costing have signed off and authorized production of the shoe articles are now “unlocked”, allowing actual production orde橡胶 to be placed.在这个阶段，当地联络处的开发、生产及总部的报价已签定并已
14、授权鞋子配色的量产，实际生产的订单可下发。b. Before SAS signed, those things need to be considered, as material should be released, no pattern/mold issue (IES pass), and no price issue.在 SAS签定之前，还有一些东西需要考虑，在材料通过后，确保没有纸版和模具问题（IES 通过）及价格问题。c. Without SAS, factory cant start to do any confirmation sample.没有 SAS，工厂不能开始做任何确认
15、样品。d. Once an SAS is signed, all changes to the product must be done via an official Product Modification Request (PMR).一旦 SAS签定，所有对产品的更改必须通过正式的产品变更要求之函文。B. Manufacturing Confirmation samples生产确认样品a. Once SAS signed, Production spec will be issued to factory, and 欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟
16、欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟- 7 -confirmation samples can be made.SAS 一旦签定，生产样品单将会发到工厂，确认样品可以生产。b. MCS is a standard on the color and materials of relevant model/Article for later production.生产确认鞋是相应鞋型与配色未来量产颜色与材料之标准。C. CSAR确认样核准单A form to confirm that a model number and article number have
17、been correctly assembled, (e.g., color, materials, construction parts, etc.). Without this CSAR,factory cant start producing.一张报表，用于确认模号和配色代号已经正确组合（例如：颜色、材料、部件等等）。没有确认样核准单，工厂则不能开始量产。Chapter II. Commercialization第二章 技术-欧维思鞋业博客 http:/ II.1. Overview 综述：Filter system before production beginning makes s
18、ure that the product can be manufactured without defect by evaluating a developed prototype in different angle such as fitting, performance and manufacturing ability and then to grade all production sizes to ensure consistency with developed prototype.通过层层过滤，此系统可在量产开始前多角度评估，例如试穿，功能和产能，确信开发的样品码生产没有问题
19、，然后确保级放出来的全套与样品码品质的一致性。Commercialization shall be performed on all TN (Totally New), NU (New Upper),NO (New Outsole female:uk5.5)这是技术性的第一个阶段，根据客户的质量标准检查样品码, 以确保生产时这些性能标准可达到。（只做标准码, 男装 uk8.5，女装 uk5.5）A. IES Process IES流程a. IES endo橡胶 ement IES 签字Prepare IES endo橡胶 ement package 准备 IES 签字文件b. IES patt
20、ern CFM IES 纸板确认c. IES fit test sample conduct IES 试穿样品试作Usually if the shoe lever is 1 female: uk3.5,5.5, 7.5)详细检查级放出来的延伸码（即大中小码），以确保级放的正确性，IES 鞋子的完整性应被保留。（需做大、中、小码，男装 uk6.5,8.5,10.5，女装uk3.5,5.5, 7.5）A. FES Process FES流程欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟- 9 -a.
21、 FES pattern CFM FES 纸版确认b. FES fitting test sample conduct FES 试穿样品试作c. 10 days later, receive FES fit test report 10天后收到 FES试穿报告d. FES passed-enter into FSRFES failed-revise and conduct againFES 通过 - 进入 FSR 阶段FES 失败 - 修改并重作再寄II.3.3. F.S.R.:Full Size Review 全码检查This stage is to find out and solve t
22、he potential problems by making 1 pai橡胶 / size for full size .此阶段每号码做 1双，发现和解决生产时潜在的问题。A. FSR Process FSR流程a. FSR pattern CFM FSR 纸版确认b. FSR die cut trial FSR 斩刀试作c. Prepare prod. Trial 量产试作准备a) Prepare production tooling 生产制具准备b) Prepare business materials 业务材料准备c) SAS 撕裂过程中爆开/潜在的问题；Multiple layer
23、areas (potential pressure points);多层部位（潜在压力点）；TR counter placement /pocket shape;塞后衬位置/后衬卷起；Reinforcements / topline tapes;补强/缩头补强带；Stitching margins;边距；Stitching accuracy to marke橡胶;按记号针车；Skiving;削边；Foams;泡棉；Cementing;胶水；Collar lining stitching.反口里针车。b) Check all aspects/components/materials/constr
24、uction of upper are accurate to spec.检查鞋面的材料，部件与车法是否确实按照 SPEC要求。欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟- 12 -II.3.4.3.8. Lasted uppe橡胶 入楦鞋面a) Check all aspects of lasted upper including:检查入楦鞋面，内容如下：Accuracy/tightness of lasted upper fit to last;是否贴楦；Lasting margins (
25、for board lasted products);攀邦后的余边（适应贴中底板的鞋子）；Wrinkles or excess material at any area of last edge (particularly at toe/heel or ball);楦头棱角处鞋面起皱或材料过多（尤其是鞋头与后跟与鞋腰）；Strobel insole size/Shape/position;拉邦中底 SIZE/形状/位置；Medial waist lasting fit(tight to last?);鞋面内腰是否贴楦；Heel shape is curve tight to last heel
26、 curve;后跟是否贴楦；Tightness of topline 缩头松紧；Eyestay opening widths;内外腰眼片之间的距离；Stress lines in upper or wrinkles.面线太紧或起皱。b)Remove last 脱楦检查；Back height,collar heights and all any other specified dimensions are as detailed.后跟高度、反口里内外腰高度和其它具体指定的尺寸符合标准。II.3.4.3.9. Bottom unit 底部Ensure all bottom units fit a
27、ccurately to every size lasted uppe橡胶;确信所有底部组件适合对应各 SIZE鞋面；Cu t p a r t s 割开大底，检查其厚度、结构、贴合、外观等是否符合底图要求；All outsoles are pressed using correct colo橡胶,ensure no color migration;大底各组件颜色正确无溢色；All molded components are to be stock-fitted under customer supervision using correct pressing negatives planned
28、 to be used for the mass production to ensure accuracy of fitting;欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟- 13 -所有底部组件贴合压机， 客户通过检查压底模图印监督；All pressing negatives are to be carefully checked 所有压底模图印被仔细检查和确认；Hardness,physical properties and bond tests are to be carried o
29、ut.进行硬度、拉力等测试。II.3.4.3.10. Moulded EVA 模压 EVACycle times /blocker Specs 检查重量；Check for water taps;检查喷嘴；II.3.4.3.13. Midsole painting 中底喷漆Specification and process to be checked;检查喷漆规格和过程；Check spray mould /mask;检查喷漆所用模具与面具；II.3.4.3.14. Sockline橡胶 /Arch cookies 鞋垫与腰海绵Size /shape/thickness to be check
30、ed.号码/形状/厚度均须检查。II.3.4.3.15. Laces 鞋带Full size run lace lengths are to be double-checked 检查面部与底部 logo是否易掉；Check all sizes 须不含镍，不生锈；Check head width 每 SIZE各 2双在开发、技朮与生产经理及有关工厂人员的指导下进行量产试作；b)All processes 每 SIZE2双量产试作鞋子在试作会上详细检查，旋即追踪样品完善；b)A detailed production trial report is to be produced by the co
31、mmercialization manager noting all relevant points brought up in the meeting.包括在试作会上提出的所有问题点的量产试作报告由技朮经理制作。II.3.4.3.23. Production trial shoe distribution 量产试作鞋子分发a) Several pai橡胶 of shoes will be taken for local fit 分发几双量产试作鞋子给当地有关人员试穿；b) Any approved production trial shoe will be signed off by bot
32、h customer and factory and kept as reference samples.量产试作 OK的鞋子由工厂与客户签名，并保存以作参考。II.3.4.3.24. Production trial result 量产试作结论a) Determined by the unanimous agreement of the development /commercialization 欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟- 15 -结论由开发、技朮与生产经理一致做出；b)
33、 Pass= Continue onto mass production (official authorization to the factory to be given by production manager).成功即可开始量产（由生产经理正式授权给工厂）。The paperless tech package needs to be updated with the final technical information from the latest commercialization stage.This tech package must include the below l
34、isted details in digital (computer file) format.整套技朮应根据最近试作阶段的最新技朮信息作相应更新。这套技朮应包括下列文件中的详细内容，用计算机文档形式保存。Crispin upper pattern file with grading information;面版级放文件；All technical drawings Cadkey format;所有工程技朮图纸-用 Cadkey格式；All gauges for bottom and upper parts-Cadkey format or DXF format;所有底部与面部部件的标准规格-
35、用 Cadkey 格式或 DXF 格式；Artwork for all logos or prints on the upper;鞋面上印刷与所有 logos 的标准；All relevant commercialization documents, forms and sheets(stage reports, fitting reports, grading sheet, blocker spec, etc);所有有关的技朮文件（试作阶段报告，试穿报告，级放表，spec 等）；Any digital image taken from commercialization samples or
36、 confirmation samples;IES/FES/FSR/CFM鞋子的扫描图像；The commercialization manager is responsible for the storage of the technical information ideally by saving it also on optical media for archival purposes(record CD).技朮经理将上述技朮信息储存至 CD光盘。c) Fail=make all necessary changes & re-conduct production trial in f
37、ull.失败则须做所有必要变更，重新开始量产。II.4. Commercialization Work Description 技术工作简介II.4.1. Bottom mold flow chart 底模流程II.4.2. Bottom Gauge 底板A. Last bottom gauge 楦底板B. Top net gauge 内仁下板C. Top gauge 内仁总板D. M/S top gauge 中底内仁板欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟- 16 -E. M/S top
38、 outline center 中底外围板F. O/S bottom gauge 大底底板G. O/S top Gauge 大底内仁板H. M/S bottom gauge 中底底板I. Inside gauge 内侧板J. Outside gauge 外侧板J. Profile 剖面L. Section gauge 断面板II.4.3. Tech drawing 技术图纸II.4.4. Last copy 楦头复制A. Last length measure 楦头长度测量B. Last copying 楦头复制II.4.5.Wooden mold木模II.4.6. Mean forme 中庸
39、板II.4.7. Shell pattern 半面版II.4.8. Pattern creation 开纸板CHAPTER III. FOOTWEAR TRANSFER第三章 鞋型转移-欧维思鞋业博客 http:/ III.1. Purpose 目的To Efficiently communicate the required information to expedite product transferbetween factories.对所需的信息进行有效的沟通，来加速工厂之间的产品转移。III.2. 产品转移有 5种方式欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋
40、店加盟欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟- 17 -There are 5 types of footwear product transfer .产品转移有 5种方式。III.2.1. Development Transfer 开发转移Product is moved from one factory to another factory before SAS issuing.鞋型在签 SAS前转移到其它工厂。III.2.2. Dual Source Transfer 双边转移Product that is SAS activated in one fa
41、ctory is duplicated in another factory.SAS于一厂已签订，于另一厂复制，两厂都有生产。III.2.3. Complete Transfer 完全转移Product that is SAS activated in one factory is completely moved to another factory.SAS签订后，一厂该鞋型的生产完全转移至另一厂。228鞋企高绩效完全管理体系III.2.4. Assembly only Transfer 成型转移Product that is SAS activated in one factory wil
42、l be assembled in another. The source factory will provide components to the destination factory, tooling will not be transferred.在一家工厂完成 SAS签订，但在别家工厂成型，原工厂提供半成品给另一工厂，但制具不会转移。III.2.5. Additional Model / Article Transfer 追加型体/配色转移Outsole Tooling and Cutting Dies are already available in the destinati
43、on factory.New models and articles are being added to an existing macro model.大底制具和裁刀在转移的目的工厂已有，增加可用此器具之新型体/配色到现有量产型体中。Abbreviation language 缩写词PPR/ILR : Pre prototype review/initial line review初始线条评估PFR/FLR : Prototype final review/final line review最后线条评估BOM : Bill of materials 生产指令表/对象零件表MOQ : Min
44、imum order quantity 最低订单量CCM : Cost confirmation memo 鞋型价格确认表MCF : Mould confirmation form 模具确认表CBD : Cost breakdown 成本分析表/价格分析表PLO : Profit/labour cost/overhead 利润/人工费/管理费GMM : General marketing meeting常规销售会议SMS : Salesman sample销售样品欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百科、鞋店加盟欧维思鞋业博客- http:/ -鞋类常识、鞋业资讯、鞋业百
45、科、鞋店加盟- 18 -SAS : Style activation sheet型体量产确认单SRF : Sample request form样品单MMR : Material monitor report材料控制表PMR : Product modification request产品变更要求CSAR : Confirmation sample approval report确认样核准报告IES : Initial evaluation stage初始评估阶段FES : Final evaluation stage最后评估阶段FSR : Full size review 全码检查PT : Production trial量产试做PPA : Pre production agreement预先开模协议MCS : Manufacturing confirmation sample确认鞋TCR : Tooling capacity report制具产能报告MCR : Mould checking report模具检查表PAWS : Pro athlete wear size大码试穿鞋PTF : Product transfer form产品转移表
