1、东华大学 服装英语 What Does a Designer Do5 What Does a Designer Do? 设计人员做什么?What exactly does a designer do? No two designers will answer this question in the same way because each designer does so many different things. As a rule, designers work for a wholesale apparel house or manufacturer, and their duti
2、es include a range of interrelated jobs。设计师到底要做些什么? 不会有二个设计人员回答这问题是一样的，因为每个设计师做许多不同的事情，有这样的一个规则，服装设计师是为服装批发商和服装制造商工作的，他们的职责包括与之相关工作的范围内。Usually the designer is directly responsible to the head of the company or the division。The head of the company directs the overall operations that allow the compan
3、y to function. He or she is in charge of all office and sales personnel as well as the functions considered the business side of the operation。In addition, depending on the size of the company, the head may work closely with the designer in choosing fabrics and finalizing the styles selected for the
4、 line。通常设计师要直接对公司或公司分支机构的领导负责。公司的领导要指挥全面的工作让公司正常运行。他或她不仅要负担生意运作方面的职责，还要管理所有行政及销售部门的全体人员。而且根据公司的规模，老板与设计师在选择面料，款式系列的确定上紧密合作。The average apparel firm is divided into three major departments: design, production, and sales departments. The designer is actually a participant in all three departments. The
5、 best way to present a picture of the designer at work is to trace the creation of a line. The line begins as a series of ideas in the designers mind, ideas that are made concrete in the design process, then sold to the retailer, and finally sold to the customer. Let us trace the process.通常服装公司分为三个主
6、要部门：设计部门，生产部门，和销售部门。设计人员事实上参与所有三个部门。要描述设计师的工作画面，最佳办法就是追踪一个款式系列的创作过程。一个款式系列的始于设计师的一系列想法，这想法会具体体现在设计师创作过程中，然后服装卖于批发商，最后卖于消费者。让我们来追踪这过程。Researching Colors and Fabrics 调研色彩与面料The first step in creating a new line is to research fashion and consumer trends. The numerous excellent sources of fashion infor
7、mation will explore fabricating a line and sources of inspiration. Generally, the designer will begin by investigating color trends. Information on color trends for the coming season usually comes from fiber companies and professional color services like Pat Tunskey。On the basis of these general pre
8、dictions, the designer selects the colors he or she feels will make the line unique and salable. Once the color story is set, the designer begins to review textile lines。创作一个新的款式系列的第一步是调研流行趋势和消费者的消费趋势。很多好的流行资讯是探索创作一个优秀款式系列的灵感来源。总而言之，设计师将通过调查色彩趋势来开始工作。下一季的色彩趋势信息通常来自于面料公司和像PT的色彩服务机构。在这总体预测的基础上，设计师选择他们
9、认为不错的色彩并使他或她有个性和好卖。一旦设计色彩确定就来审视面料。Often someone from management, perhaps the head of the company, the merchandise person (head of sales), or the stylist, will assist the designer in selecting fabrics and colors. Those people participating in the selection will exchange information on new fibers and
10、processes while trying to incorporate new fabric trends appropriate to the firms of inspiration, and the excitement it generates often starts the chain of creation。来自公司管理层的某些人，公司领导，销售总监，产品经理将帮助设计师选择面料和色彩。那些参与选择的人在新的面料和工艺方面交换信息，同时那些参与选择的人尽量把适应公司成本和风格的面料与新的面料和工艺趋势相吻合。当然，面料是灵感的一个很重要的来源，而且它所产生的刺激通常是一连串创
11、意的开始。Frequently a style is carried over from one season to the next because it sold well. Manufacturers tend to run (continue) with a hot number as long as the style will sell, but only when a style has proved itself by continuous reorders. The designer must know which styles have become hot items.
12、He or she will then refabricate the style to make it more attractive to buyers. Many times a designer is asked to incorporate parts of a good body into a similarly style garment or version of the original. 一个款式从一季流行到下一季是因为它畅销。只要这款式被证明持续再订购，服装生产商就会大量生产。设计师知道这款式是热销系列。他或她就用其他面料翻做畅销的款式使它对买家更有吸引力。设计师经常会被
13、要求将畅销款式上的一些部分组合到类似款式的服装上，或结合在原版款式的衍生款式上。Creating Styles 创作款式Once fabrics have been selected, the designer begins to create styles for the line。The refabrications and versions of good bodies from the last season may provide the basic styles or staples of the new line。Then the designer begins styling
14、the new garments。一旦面料被设计师所选定，设计师将开始设计款式系列。来自于上季用其他面料制作的畅销款式将被作为基款。然后设计师开始设计新的款式系列。Most designers work within the narrow constraints of the category that has been assigned to the manufacturer by the stores to which that firm has successfully sold. For example, a missy, moderate dress manufacturer may
15、 be further defined by retailers as specializing in print dresses made in easy-care fabrics. Usually it is very difficult to change this reputation drastically, because customers come to a manufacturer expecting to find a special kind of merchandise. Often buyers will allocate money to the specific
16、category of merchandise and the manufacturer who has a reputation for producing it well. This can be a dangerous trap for a manufacturer. Overspecialization is disastrous if the category of merchandise sold goes out of fashion. To avoid over -specialization, the manufacturer should diversify the pro
17、duct line so that it is current with trends in the fashion market.大部分设计师作品都被局限在由一些商店指定的类型中，因为公司在这些商店里都有很好的销售业绩。例如，普通的少女裙的生产商被零售商定义为专业生产免烫印花连衣裙的生产商。通常很难改变这样的名气，因为顾客到这生产商那里找特定的商品。买手们经常把钱投给某些特定品种的商品，以及以生产这种商品著称的厂家。这对于生产商是一种风险。所卖商品的品种如果过时了，那么过于专业化就是个灾难。为了免于过度专业化，生产商应使他的生产线多样化来适应服装趋势的变化。The designer must
18、 think of the customer who will want the particular category of merchandise。Visits to retailers who sell the merchandise well will help in the creative process, because the designer will have a concrete idea of what the customer wants and what the customers figure problems are. Some designers visual
19、ize an “idea customer,“ a person who wears the garments well. Good designers never lose sight of the individual who will ultimately have to find the garment attractive enough to purchase it, no matter how large the manufacturer or the stores who sell the merchandise. In addition, the following speci
20、fic requirements for a good style must guide a designer as he or she sketches or drapes the actual garments.设计师必须考虑到顾客特定的商品种类。拜访商品卖得好的零售商，有助于设计师的创作进展。因为设计师对顾客想要的和顾客存在的体型问题有具体想法。一些设计师看到了一类理想化的消费者，穿衣能有效果的顾客。好的设计师从来不会忽视个别顾客，他将最终会发现对其有足够吸引力而去购买，无论制造商有多大或商店货物有多充足。而且，对于好的款式的特定要求可以使他或她在画设计图或服装立裁，对他或她起指导作用。
21、Aesthetic Appeal 审美的要求The garment should be attractive to the specific customer for whom it was created. Customers aesthetic requirements differ with every size, price, and age range, but everyone is looking for a stylish garment. Therefore, the fabric in every garment should be attractive and fashi
22、onable in print and color. Most customers touch a garment immediately after being visually attracted to it, so the hand (feel) of the fabric is as important as its appearance.服装对特定顾客有一定吸引力。顾客的审美需求因每套服装的尺寸，价格和年龄而不同，但每个人都寻找特定的时尚服装。因此，每套服装的面料具有吸引力，同时印花和色彩要非常时尚。大多数顾客当被服装吸引后，会立刻触摸，于是对于面料的手感和服装的外观一样重要。Han
23、ger appeal is very important in the customers first evaluation of a garment. Clothes that do not present themselves well on a hanger (a halter dress, for example) benefit from being displayed on a mannequin. A garment that looks attractive on a hanger has a much better chance of selling than a garme
24、nt that does not.衣架展示对于顾客对服装最初印象是非常重要的。服装挂在衣架上不能展示出很好的效果时，它可以穿在人台上陈列出很好的效果。挂在衣架上的有吸引力的服装要比不挂在衣架上的服装更有机会被消费者购买。The designer should create each garment for a specific kind of occasion. For example, a showy garment is fun to look at and display, but where would it be worn? 1.Accessorizing a garment is
25、important too, 2.and the designer can help the customer pick accessories by adding a belt or trim that suggests a color for shoes and bag。3. A garment that can be accessorized easily and yet is suitable for a range of activities is likely to sell. 设计师应该为特定场合设计每类服装。例如，一件展示的服装它展示陈列很好，但它穿到哪里去？1.为服装搭配配件
26、也很重要，2.设计师可以帮助顾客挑选配件可以加腰带或装饰品建议鞋，包的色彩与腰带或装饰品同一色系。3.既很容易搭配又适合各种场合的服装会很好卖。Price 价格The garment should be an obviously good value for its price. If the price is too high, the customer will probably not try it on, even if she likes the style。When the designer styles a garment, he or she must consider the
27、 price of every detail, from the initial cost of the fabric to the trims and construction methods. Ultimately, the garments success or failure may depend on cost。服装很显然应当物有所值。如果价格很高，消费者将不会去试穿，即使她喜欢这款式。当设计师设计一整套服装时，他或她就必须要考虑到每个细节的价格，包括面料的最初成本及装饰和服装结构的组合方法。最终，服装的成败取决于成本。The price of a garment is relati
28、ve to the prices of the garments that surround it in the store and compete with it in the market. The manufacturers sales department tries to sell the line to the department or store that has the most compatible merchandise, both in price and “look“ of garments. Generally，a line will nor sell well i
29、n a department if it is either the most expensive or the cheapest offered. Furthermore, the designer must be careful not to select a fabric or print that is used by other manufacturers for a lower-priced garment.一整套服装价格在商店里四周的价格与市场竞争的价格有关。服装生产商的销售部门会尽量把服装系列出售给一些在价格与服装风格一致的百货商店和零售店。总而言之，如果价格太高或太低，这款式
30、在商店里会不好卖。设计师必须非常小心不要选择那些已被用于低价服装的面料与印花。Timing 时间的安排A design should both fit into a general fashion trend and satisfy the customers desire to be unique and fashionable. Again, how these requirements are met varies greatly for different customers. During the same period, the young junior customer may
31、be buying authentic work overalls, the young missy customer may be looking for copies of European pre-a-porter (ready-to-wear) and the designer customer may be looking at Paris couture. Many excellent products have hit the sale racks because they were too early or too late for the fashion taste of t
32、he moment. The designer must be aware of general fashion trends and, more important, the trends that are influencing that particular market.设计既要适合流行总体趋势又能满足消费者的个性和时尚需求。此外，如何非常多样化地满足不同顾客的这些需求，青少年顾客购买正规的工作服，年轻的未婚女性寻找欧洲成衣的翻版，设计师顾客观看巴黎高级时装。许多很好的产品滞销因为他们在流行的过早过晚上市。设计师必须确定总的流行趋势，并以这个趋势影响特定的市场。Fit 试穿Once t
33、he customer has selected a garment to try on, the chance of selling that garment improves. Now the way the garment looks on the customers figure is crucial. The customer wants the garment to fit and make her look taller and more slender. If the designer has created a garment to fit a slender, tall m
34、odel, many average customers with figure problems will be disappointed when they try on the garment. The garment that conceals figure problems, flatters the face and body, fits well, and is pleasingly proportioned will be a successand success means a garment that sell!试穿第一件样衣是设计的首要。一旦顾客选择试穿一件服装，那这服装
35、出售的几率就大了。穿在顾客身上的服装外观非常重要。顾客希望服装穿在身上合身并看上去更高挑。如果设计师设计的服装适合高挑的模特，那有体型问题的普通顾客会非常失望。能掩盖体型问题，衬托脸和身材，有好的比例的服装是成功的那这服装是畅销的！Care and Durability 免烫和耐久性Most customers will examine a garment to see if is well made。Easy-care, particularly wash and wear, is an important part of making a satisfactory garment, and
36、 a satisfactory garment is one that performs well and looks beautiful。If the designer chooses a wash and wear fabric but lines the garment with a fabric that must be dry-cleaned，that is defeating the fabrics purpose.。The successful performance of the garment also depends on the designers care in sel
37、ecting trims and findings。Many chain stores recognize the importance of durability. A chain store many give the manufacturer specific instructions, about how the garment should stand up to washing and ironing。大多数顾客会检验服装是否做工精良。免烫，洗可穿是服装令人满意的重要组成部分，一整套满意的服装要好穿和好看。如果设计师选择洗可穿的面料，面料的里衬只能干洗，这样就打破了面料的功能。成功
38、服装的外观取决于设计师对于选择装饰和个性亮点的关注。许多连锁店意识到服装耐久性的重要性。一个连锁店会给生产商关于服装应如何禁得起洗烫的特定指示。What does a designer do？1Market research 市场调研 2Conceive the idea 酝酿设计理念3Research colors and fabrics 调研色彩与面料4Create styles 设计款式5Confirm the price 确定价格6Fit the sample 试穿样衣7Coordinate the garments 搭配服装8Display the garments 陈列展示服装9Organize a fashion show 组织发布
