1、the Deadly noodleOf all the ways France has resisted the cultural imperialism of the United States, it has arguably achieved its greatest success in the realm of food. Not only is French cuisine the envy of the world, but culinary tradition has allowed the French to consume their sauce veloute and c
2、reme brulee without succumbing to the ills of over consumption that plague the land of burgers, fries and angioplasty. In recent years, however, statistics have begun to reveal that France is vulnerable to Americas junk-food influence after all. Although southern, rural France remains steadfastly he
3、althy, its more urban neighbors to the north suffer more from eating-related problems, not least a rise in childhood obesity. “We cant point our finger at any one thing,“ says Mariette Gerber, a nutritional scientist at the National Institute for Medical Research and Health in Montpellier. “Its a mo
4、dern way of life, very urban. And it has come from the United States.“在法国抵制美国的文化帝国主义的各种方式中,它可以说在食品领域取得了最大的成功。 法式料理不仅让世人羡慕,而且烹饪传统使得法国人可以在不损害汉堡,薯条和血管成形术的过度消费弊端的情况下食用酱汁和焦糖布丁。 然而近年来,统计已经开始显示,法国毕竟容易受到美国的垃圾食品影响。 尽管南部,法国农村仍然健康,但北部更多的城市邻居受到与饮食有关的问题的困扰,尤其是儿童肥胖的上升。 蒙彼利埃国家医学研究和健康研究所的营养科学家玛丽特格伯( Mariette Gerber
5、)说:“我们不能指责任何事情。 “这是一种现代化的生活方式,很城市化,而且来自美国。 ”Frances growing fat problem underscores how inexorable the Americanization of food habits has become. The problem is even more acute in the developing world, where the taste for American fast-food products like McDonalds hamburgers and Coca-Cola has long b
6、een fashionable. Urbanization is leading to more sedentary lifestyles in many places. And more and more, even traditional foods are being prepared from processed flour and other ingredients that yield more calories and less healthy roughage. Nobody ever thought resisting the export of American diets
7、 would be easy. But the trend has turned out to be more insidious and more widespread than previously thought. “Its very easy to blame globalization, or the big brands like Coca-Cola or McDonalds,“ says Derek Yach, executive director of the World Health Organizations disease prevention, nutrition, d
8、iet and physical-fitness program. “But the problem goes much, much deeper.“法国日益增长的肥胖问题突出的饮食习惯的美国化如何必然就成了。问题是,即使在发展中国家,那里的美式快餐产品,如麦当 劳的汉堡包和可口可乐的口味早已被时尚更加尖锐。城市化是导致在很多地方更多久坐的生活方式。而且越来越多,正在从加工面粉和能产生更多的热量,少粗粮健康等食材烹制甚至传统食品。从来没有人想到要反抗美国饮食的出口会很容易。但趋势已被证明是更隐蔽,比以前认为的更加普遍。 “这是很容易归咎于全球化,还是大品牌像可口可乐或麦当劳, ”德雷克 亚希,
9、世界卫生 组织的疾病预防的执行董事,营养,饮食和身体的健身计划说。 “但问题更进了,更深刻。 ”Diet and exercise habits may be complex, but the basic recipe for health problems is simple: a rise in caloric intake and a decline in calorie-burning activities. The number of overweight people in the United States doubled in the past 20 years to 60 p
10、ercent, and Europe and Asia are catching up. In some developing countries, obesity is increasing faster than in America-the rate is three times higher in -Mexico and Egypt. Each year more new cases of diabetes arise in China and India than in all other countries combined.饮食和运动习惯可能是复杂的,但基本配方的健康问题很简单:
11、在热量摄入的增加和燃烧卡路里的活动下降。在美国超重的人数增加了一倍,在过去 20 年的60,而欧洲和亚洲正在赶上来。在一些发展中国家,肥胖增加比美国更快 - 率在-Mexico 和埃及高出三倍。每年糖尿病更多的新病例发生在中国和印度比其他所有国家的总和。Where are all the extra calories coming from? One surprising source is the raw grains and other ingredients used for cooking traditional-formerly healthy-dishes. When crops
12、are grown in big farms and processed en masse, much of their nutrient value is taken out, and their “caloric density“ rises. Even the noodle, a staple of many traditional diets, is no longer as healthy as it once was. In China, for instance, home-cooked noodles used to be made from whole-grains, gro
13、und by hand. Now, households use factory-made “refined“ flour, from which the grain husks have been discarded along with nutrients like fiber and minerals. What remains are simple carbohydrates that the body more easily turns into fat.在哪里都是多余的热量来自何处?一个令人惊讶的来源是原料谷物和用于烹调传统的其他成分 - 以前健康 - 菜。当作物大 农场种植和加工
14、的集体,他们的大部分营养价值被取出来,和他们的“卡路里密度”上升。即使是米线,许多传统饮食的主食,不再像以前那样健康。在中国,例如,使用自制的面条必须从全谷类,手工制作地。现在,家庭使用工厂制造的“精” 面粉,从中谷壳已与像纤维和矿物质营养素一起丢弃。剩下的是简单的碳水化合物,人体更容易变成脂肪。Cooking oils have taken a similar turn for the worse. Back in the 1960s, Japanese and American researchers discovered an inexpensive way to extract oil
15、 from vegetables. Westerners and developing countries alike adopted vegetable oils as a cheaper alternative to butter, healthy if used in moderation. The problem is, the oil is so cheap that in places like India its used to excess. Its not uncommon for Indian cooks to use vegetable oil for breakfast
16、, lunch and supper, and to throw in an extra 10 or 20 grams to enhance a dishs flavor.食用油已经采取了更糟糕了类似的转变。早在 20 世纪 60 年代,日本和美国的研究人员发现一种廉价的方式从蔬菜中提取石油。西方人和发展中国家如果适量使用都采用植物油为黄油,健康更便宜的选择。 问题是,石油是如此便宜,在印度等它到过量。它的情况并不少见印度厨师用植物油供应早餐,午餐和晚餐,并在额外的 10 或 20 克抛来提高菜的味道。Sugar is another culprit. Diets in some develo
17、ping countries contain on average about 300 more calories a day than they did 20 years ago, according to Barry Popkin, professor of nutrition at the University of North Carolina. Some of the extra sugar comes from soda, but a bigger factor is the growing adoption of Western manufacturing practices,
18、which allow local companies to sweeten bread and other staples. Brazil now consumes more sugar per capita than even the United States.糖是另一个罪魁祸首。在一些发展中国家, 饮食平均含有约 300 倍更多的热量,每天比他们 20 年前,根据巴里波普金,在北卡 罗莱 纳大学营养学教授。一些 额外的糖来源于苏打水,而是一个更大的因素是越来越多地采用西方的生产实践,这让当地公司甜面包等主食。巴西现在人均消耗更多的糖,甚至比美国。No part of the world
19、, no matter how remote, is immune from empty calories. Over the course of 30 years, the native population of Samoa has fallen victim to rampant weight gain-today more than half its residents are clinically obese. James Bindon, a biological anthropologist at Alabama University, traced one of the caus
20、es to a fondness for tins of corned beef imported from England. Similar trends have been observed in Fiji. “Where in the past they produced their own fruits and vegetables, now theyre swamped with canned soda and mutton fat imported from New Zealand,“ says Yach of WHO. “Call it the Coca-Colafication
21、 of the Pacific islands.“世界上的任何部分,无论多么偏远,距离空 热量免疫。在 30 年的历程,萨摩亚的外来人口已经牺牲品猖獗体重增加 - 目前有一半以上的居民都患有肥胖症。詹姆斯宾 登,在阿拉巴马大学的生物人类学家,追 查 的原因之一,从英国 进口的咸牛肉罐头的的钟爱。类似的趋势在斐济被观察到。 “而在过去,他们制作自己的水果和蔬菜,现在他们正在用罐装汽水和肥羊肉从新西兰进口淹没, ”世界卫生组织的 Yach 说。 “说它是太平洋岛屿的可口可乐 Colafication。”People in both developed and developing countrie
22、s are also doing less and less physical activity. Its the couch-potato syndrome. Rather than riding their bicycles and working the fields, people sit on assembly lines, ride in cars and spend their free time watching television-95 percent of Chinese households now have a TV set. “We export our jobs,
23、 and our wage-labor patterns,“ says Bindon. “Its a culture-bound syndrome.“在发达国家和发展中国家的人们也在做少体力活动。这是沙发土豆综合症。而不是骑脚踏车和工作领域,人们坐在装配线上, 驰骋在汽车,花自己的空 闲时间看电视 - 95的中国家庭现在有一台电视机。 “我们出口我们的工作,我们的雇佣劳动模式, ”宾登说。 “这是一个文化的结合综合征”。The syndrome is raising health-care costs-$100 billion for obese children in the United
24、States, estimates the Centers for Disease Control. What about the 35 million overweight kids around the world, not to mention 300 million adults? “The cost of health care-to feed the hungry and pay for the medical bills of obesity is staggering,“ says Weight Watchers International chief science offi
25、cer Karen Miller-Kovach. Unfortunately, obesity and all the illnesses it entails hit the poor hardest of all. High-caloric junk food is cheap enough to afford even on a low income. And the well-heeled and well-educated tend to be better about hitting the gym. In developing countries, those leisure a
26、ctivities arent even an option yet. The popularity of Western-style food has thus led to an alarming trend: obese parents and undernourished children living under the same roof. “Its a very attractive lifestyle,“ says Popkin. But its killing people all the same.该综合征是提高医疗保健费用 - 在美国肥胖儿童$ 100 十亿,估计疾病控制中心。怎么样在世界各地 3500 万点超重的孩子,别说 3 个亿成年人?“ 医疗保健的成本 - 喂饱饥饿 和支付医 疗费用的肥胖是惊人的, ”慧俪轻体国际首席科学官卡伦米勒 - 科瓦奇说。不幸的是,肥胖和所有的疾病,它需要加重穷人所有的最难的。高热量的垃圾食品是便宜到足以买得起即使是收入低。而富有的,受 过良好教育往往是关于打健身房更好。在发展中国家, 这些休闲活动甚至不是一种选择呢。因而西餐的普及导致了一个令人担忧的趋势:肥胖的父母和营养不良的儿童在同一个屋檐下生活。 “这是一个非常有吸引力的生活方式, ”波普金说。但它杀了人都一样。