1、World of Colour,Emotional, sensual, inspirational, these are a few of the ways we define our experience of and relationship with the world of colour. Colour affects our moods, our language and our image of ourselves. It is this which interests the hairdresser, who, empowered with the superb IGORA ra
2、nge can change the world in which their clients live.,Fit For Colour适合染发 Day 1第一天,To be fit for colour requires, not only technical ability and creative flair, but a working knowledge of hair, products and tools of the trade combined with effective client interaction and retailing skills. 要适合染发，不仅需要
3、技术能力和创造才能，还需要对头发，产品和销售工具的工作经验结合有效的顾客交流和零售技巧。,Session Outline会议纲要 Fit for Colour适合染发,1 TheoryPrinciples of ColourThe Colour WheelNatural Hair 2 General ProductsProduct GroupsOxidative & Direct PigmentsSemi / Demi / Permanent Colours 1 理论染发法则色轮天然发质 2 普通产品产品组氧化和Direct色素非/半/永久性产品,Session Outline 会议纲要Fit
4、 for Colour适合染发,3 IGORA SystemFeatures & BenefitsNumbering SystemIGORA Product Range 3 IGORA系统特色和益处编号系统IGORA产品范围,Timings时间表,10:00 Introduction 10:15 Theory 11:30 Break 11:45 General Products 13:00 Lunch 14:00 IGORA System 14:45 Practical Work Introduction 15:00 Break 15:15 Practical Work 16:30 Summa
5、ry 17:00 Finish 10:00 介绍 10:15 理论 11:30 休息 11:45 普通产品 13:00 午饭 14:00 依采系统 14:45 实践工作介绍 15:00 休息 15:15 实践工作 16:30 总结 17:00 结束,Aims目标,By the end of this session you will:Have applied an in-depth knowledge of colour theory in order to understand the features, benefits and action of general colouring pr
6、oduct ranges.Have started to learn about the IGORA System product range. 学完本课程，您将会： 将染发理论的深入知识应用与如何明白特色，益处和普通产品范围的作用。 开始学习有关依采系统的产品范围。,Objectives目的,By the end of this session you will:Be able to explain how and why colour is perceived and created, applying this to modern hairdressing practice using
7、the colour wheel and complementary colour.Have learnt about pigmentation in hair and linked this to the theory of direct and oxidative colour.Be able to identify general product categories and explain how they act on the hair using correct terminology and a basic knowledge of ingredients.Be able to
8、identify IGORA System products and choose the correct shade based using the Schwarzkopf numbering system. 学完本课程，您将会： 能够解释颜色是如何被感知和创造的，并能通过使用色轮和互补色将此应用于现代美发实习中。 学习染发打底并将此 与direct和氧化染发理论联系起来。 能够鉴别普通产品目录并在使用Schwarzkopf编号系统的基础上选择正确的色调。,1 Theory理论,Colour influences our lives in many different ways; a wor
9、ld without colour could be described as boring, empty, lacking in energy and life! As such, colour is an important element within the world of fashion, a statement of individuality and character. 颜色以许多不同的方式影响着我们；没有颜色的世界是单调，空洞及没有生命力和活力的。正因为如此，颜色是时尚界的一个重要因素，是个性和性格的宣言。,Principles of Colour颜色原理 1.1,What
10、 is colour?Colour is derived from light Pure light comes from the sunLight is radiation Electromagnetic vibrationsPure light is split by a prism Forms the colour spectrum 什么是颜色？颜色从阳光中来从太阳中来的纯净日光日光是辐射性的电磁振动纯净日光被棱镜分离组成了颜色光谱,Principles of Colour颜色原理 1.2,Colour & Colouring AgentsAdditive Colour Colour g
11、enerated from a sourceSubtractive Colour Objects reflect light Light is influenced by object properties Pigment in hair is a colouring agent 颜色和色彩催化剂添加色颜色产生与来源减去色物体反射光线光线受物体的特性影响头发中的色素就是色彩催化剂,Principles of Colour颜色原理 1.3,Subtractive Primary ColoursRed Magenta Red and blue are reflected, green absorb
12、edYellow Red and green are reflected, blue absorbedBlue Cyan Green and blue are reflected, red absorbed 减去基础色红色 洋红色 红色和兰色被反射，绿色被吸收黄色 红色和绿色被反射，兰色被吸收兰色 青色 绿色和兰色被反射，红色被吸收,Principles of Colour颜色原理 1.4,Absorption & ReflectionWhat happens to absorbed colour? Selective absorption Transformed into energyWha
13、t happens to reflected colour? Light waves are detected by the eye Surface structure determines visual effect 吸收和反射颜色被吸收后发生了什么？有选择的吸收转化为能量颜色被反射后发生了什么？光波被眼睛发现表面结构决定视觉效果,Principles of Colour颜色原理 1.5,Atomic StructureAtomic structure influences absorption Synchronised molecules reflect lightNon-synchron
14、ised molecules absorb lightSpeed & number of electrons influence light 原子结构原子结构影响吸收同步的分子反射光线不同步的分子吸收光线电子的速度和数量影响光线,Principles of Colour颜色原理 1.6,How do we see colour?Two types of sensor in the eye Rods detect low light intensity Cones detect sharp images / colour Three types of cone sensor Each detec
15、ts either red, green or blue Light is therefore subjective 我们怎样看见颜色？眼睛里的两种传感器rods侦测低强度光圆锥细胞侦测清晰的形象/颜色三种圆锥细胞传感器分别侦测红色绿色或兰色光线因此具有主观性,The Colour Wheel 色轮1.7,What is the colour wheel?Displays primary and secondary coloursColours are subtractiveOpposing colours cancel each other outBrowns are represented
16、 in the centre 什么是色轮？展示原色和合成色颜色是减去性的对立色能够互相抵消棕色处于中央,The Colour Wheel色轮1.8,Complementary ColoursYellow - VioletOrange - Blue Red - Green 互补色黄色 紫罗兰色橘红色 兰色红色 绿色,The Colour Wheel色轮1.9,Warm & Cool Tones ChromaticYellow (Gold) WarmOrange (Copper) WarmRed Warm / CoolViolet CoolBlue CoolGreen (Matt) Cool 冷暖
17、色调 鲜艳色黄色（金色） 暖色调橘红色（铜色） 暖色调红色 暖色调/冷色调紫罗兰色 冷色调兰色 冷色调绿色 (无光泽的) 冷色调,Natural Hair天然发质 1.10,Colour in HairComes from pigment granulesType & quantity determines tone & depthPigment size & shape variesCuticle condition influences perception 头发中的颜色来源于色素颗粒种类和发质决定发色深浅度色素大小和形状不同头发表层情况影响perception,Natural Hair天
18、然发质 1.11,Pigment TypeMelanocyte cells create pigment granules Found within the root bulb Triggered by a chemical catalystTwo types of pigment are formed Pheomelanin EumelaninBoth combine to create natural shades Natural tones are achromatic 色素种类黑素细胞产生色素颗粒发现于发根中由化学催化剂促成形成的两种色素外激素真黑素两者结合生成天然色调天然发色为鲜艳色
19、,Natural Hair天然发质 1.12,Depth & ToneColour depth is determined by quantity Greater pigment concentration = darker shade Eumelanin has more influence on depth Depth is represented by a scale (1 to 10)Colour tone is determined by type Combinations of eumelanin & pheomelaninTone is more evident as hair
20、lightens Pheomelanin has more influence on tone 颜色深浅度和发色 颜色深浅度取决与发质越大量的色素汇集=越深的色调真黑素对颜色深浅度的影响更大颜色深浅度以一个比例的形式体现（1比10）发色取决于头发类型是外激素和真黑素的结合发色越浅色调越明显外激素对发色影响更大,Natural Hair天然发质 1.13,Primary UndertonesAs hair is lightened, tones become evidentPrimary undertone will influence final shadeCorrective colouri
21、ng may be required 基础发色发色越浅，色调越明显基础发色影响最终发色有可能需要颜色修正,Natural Hair天然发质 1.14,Behaviour of PigmentsEumelanin Is larger than pheomelanin Is broken down more easily Is found closer to the edge of the cortex Can be grey / brownPheomelanin Is much smaller than eumelanin Size determines colour Is more deepl
22、y embedded into the cortex Can be red / orange / yellow 色素作用真黑素比外激素大容易分解在头皮表层更容易发现可能是灰色/棕色外激素比真黑素小多了大小决定发色更容易被头皮深层次吸收可以是红色/橘红色/黄色,2 General Products普通产品,Colouring hair is a science as well as an art form. It is a unique process when compared to dying fabrics or similar materials, as the root bulb of
23、 the hair shaft is alive!A good working knowledge of the type of products available for colouring hair will provide the foundation necessary in order to become an expert. 染发不仅是一门科学更是一门艺术。有别于织物染色，它是一门独特的工艺流程，因为毛囊中的发束是活的。对于染发产品种类的充分了解会为成为这一行业的专家提供必要的基础。,General Products普通产品2.1,Pigments in Colouring Pr
24、oductsDirect Pigments Demi / Semi Pre-developed direct dyestuff Pigments are deposited in the cuticle Some pigments lodge in the cortex Pigments gradually wash outOxidative Pigment Permanent Undeveloped para-dyes Need H2O2 and ammonia additives Pigments develop within the cortex 染发产品中的色素Direct色素 半持久
25、性/非持久性预先处理过的direct染料色素附着与头发表层一些色素渗入头皮色素会逐渐被洗去氧化色素 持久性未处理过的para-dyes需要H2O2及氨水色素在头皮中生长,General Products普通产品2.2,Product GroupsPlant-based colour Some colour penetrates into cortex Some colour is deposited in the cuticle layerSemi-Permanent Colour is deposited in the cuticle layer 产品组植物提取液染发一些颜色渗入头皮一些颜色
26、附着于头发表层非持久染发颜色附着于头发表层,General Products普通产品2.2,Product GroupsDemi-Permanent Some colour penetrates into cortex Some colour is deposited in the cuticle layerPermanent Colour penetrates fully into the cortex半持久染发一些颜色渗入头皮一些颜色附着于头发表层持久性染发颜色完全渗入头皮,General Products普通产品2.3,Plant based colourHas direct pigme
27、ntsMainly deposits pigment in the cuticleGradually fadesIs ammonia-freeIs tone-on-toneCreates a high gloss finish 植物提取液染发有direct色素色素主要附着于头发表层颜色逐渐褪去没有氨水能在染过的头发上再上色能够营造十分光亮的质感,General Products普通产品2.4,Semi-Permanent ColoursHave direct pigmentsMainly deposit colour in the cuticleDo not use H2O2 solution
28、Gradually fadeAre ammonia-freeBlend up to 20% white hairHave a cosmetic benefit 非持久性染发有direct色素色素主要附着于头发表层不使用H2O2配方逐渐褪色 不使用氨水能遮盖20%的白头发有美容功效,General Products普通产品2.5,Demi-Permanent ColoursCombine direct & oxidative pigmentsDeposit colour in the cuticle & cortexUse a weak H2O2 solutionGradually fade o
29、utAre ammonia-freeHave a gentle colouring actionBlend up to 50% white hair 半持久性染发将Direct和氧化色素结合色素不仅附着与头发表层还渗入头皮使用较弱的H2O2配方逐渐褪色不使用氨水染发反应较柔和能遮盖50%的白发,General Products普通产品2.6,Permanent ColoursBleaches Lighten hair colour Reduce natural pigments Dissolve artificial pigments Require H2O2Oxidative Tints D
30、eposit permanent colour within the cortex Red, blue & yellow pigments develop into final colour Can lighten or darken shade Require H2O2 Cover up to 100% white hair 持久染发漂染使发色变浅减少天然色素溶解人工色素需要H2O2氧化染发剂色素持久渗入头皮红色，兰色及黄色色素搀入最终发色能使色调变浅或变深需要H2O2100%遮盖白发,General Products普通产品2.7,Colouring Ingredients Oxidati
31、ve ColourThe base cream Oil or water based emulsionColour precursors Undeveloped colour moleculesDyestuffs Pre-developed colour moleculesAlkalising agents Oxidative catalyst 染发成分 氧化染发 基础乳液油性或水性乳剂Colour precursors预先处理过的色素分子染料未成熟的色素分子碱化试剂氧化催化剂,General Products普通产品2.8,Colouring IngredientsCaring agents
32、 Promote healthy hairAntioxidants Prevent pre-oxidation of colour precursors Complexing agents Combine with metallic impuritiesPerfume Disguises the smell of ammonia 染发成份护理试剂促进生成健康头发抗氧化剂预防colour precursors的过早氧化综合试剂与金属杂质混合香料掩盖氨水的气味,3 IGORA System依采系统,IGORA incorporates a wide range of diverse colours
33、 and application systems, with covering natural tones through to vibrant fashion and extreme colours.Choose from permanent or semi-permanent colours with complete confidence. Whether you want to try a colour for a few days, have a gentle coloration, or a permanent colour with superior intensity and
34、brilliance. The IGORA System delivers. 依采将一系列品种丰富的染发及应用系统结合起来，顶尖时尚和极端的颜色。 放心的从永久性和半永久性的染发产品中作出选择。无论你是想尝试一种新颜色，过几天就洗掉，还是尝试一种较柔和的染发或是使用鲜明强烈的永久性染发产品，依采系统都能满足你。,IGORA System依采系统3.1,Features & BenefitsOver 100 different shadesCreative productsEasy to use professional productsPermanent, Demi / Semi colour
35、sEasy to understand identificationNumbering system synergy Up to full grey coverage with natural tonesExtensive testing for health & safetyExciting fashion colours 特色和益处多过100种的不同色调创造性的产品方便使用的专业产品永久性，半永久性/非永久性染发便于区分配合编号系统能够使用天然色调完全遮盖白发大量健康和安全的测试激动人心的时尚色彩,IGORA System依采系统3.2,Numbering SystemColour Lev
36、el / Depth 12 = Special Blonde 10 = Ultra Blonde91/2 = Pastel Blonde9 = Extra Light Blonde8 = Light Blonde7 = Medium Blonde6 = Dark Blonde5 = Light Brown4 = Medium Brown3 = Dark Brown 1 = Black 编号系统颜色级别/深浅度12=特殊金10=柔和金91/2 =蜡金色9=超亮金8=亮金7=中度金6=暗金5=亮棕色4=中度棕3=暗棕色1=黑色,IGORA System依采系统3.3,Numbering Syste
37、mTone -0 = Natural-00 = Natural Extra-1 = Cendre-2 = Blue/Green (smokey)-3 = Green (matt)-4 = Orange/Violet (beige)-5 = Yellow (gold)-6 = Red/Brown (warm mocha)-7 = Orange (copper)-8 = Red-9 = Purple (violet) 编号系统色调-0=天然色-00=超天然-1=Cendre-2=兰色/绿色（烟兰色/烟绿色）-3=绿色（暗绿色）-4=橘红色/紫罗兰色（米色）-5=黄色（金色）-6=红色/棕色（暖咖啡
38、色）-7=橘红色（紫铜色）-8=红色-9=紫色（紫罗兰色）,IGORA System依采系统3.4,Numbering System ExamplesLevel | Primary Tone | Secondary Tone8-4 Light blonde beige7-87 Medium blonde red copper6-99 Dark blonde violet extra 编号系统 实例级别|初级色调|中级色调8-4 编号系统 实例色度 | 基础色调 | 中级色调8-4 浅米金色7-87 中度红铜金色6-99 超暗紫罗兰金色,IGORA System依采系统3.5,IGORA Pro
39、ducts IGORA Botanic Semi-permanent Plant based colourIGORA Color Gloss Semi-permanent Mousse formatIGORA Extreme Color Semi-permanent Gel formatIGORA Fleur Semi-permanent Pre-mixed gel format 依采产品依采Botanic非永久性植物提取染发依采Color Gloss非永久性摩丝配方依采极端色非永久性凝胶配方依采Fleur非永久性 Pre-mixed gel format,IGORA System依采系统3.
40、6,IGORA Products IGORA Indian Fire Semi-permanent Pre-mixed gel formatIGORA Personality Demi-permanent Oxidative colouring creamIGORA Royal Permanent Oxidative colouring creamIGORA Color Equalizer Pre-pigmentation treatment Spray Format 依采产品依采印度火非永久性 Pre-mixed gel format依采个性护理染膏半永久性氧化染膏依采平衡素染前打底配方喷雾
41、式,IGORA System依采系统3.7,IGORA Products IGORA Vario Blond Bleaching powder Dust freeIGORA Blond Toner Oxidative colouring cream Provides tonal variationIGORA Bonacrom Permanent tint For lashes and eyebrows 依采产品依采无尘漂粉漂粉无尘依采Blond Toner氧化染膏提供色调变化依采Bonacrom永久性染料针对睫毛和眉毛,Summary总结,SubtitleContent Content 副标题内容内容,
