1、Circular Knitted Fabrics,OI Quality Training Course,Contents Circular Knitted FabricsA. Fabrics Made with a Single Set of Needles (Single Knits)i. Single Jersey- Single Jersey with Elastane - Pique- Lacoste- Baby French Terry- Jacquardii Terryiii. French TerryB. Fabrics Made on Two Needle Beds (Doub
2、le Knits)i. Interlockii. Doubled Knitted Fabricsiii. Double Knitted - Jacquard iv Rib,Shaft Weaving: Schematic 梭(平)织法简图,Warping,Circular Knitting Machine 大筒圆编針织机,Circular Knitting Machine 大筒圆编針织机,弹力单面布 Single Jersey with Elastane,单面四角网眼布 Piqu,单面六角网眼布 Lacoste,单面四段鱼鳞布 Baby French Terry,单面布提花 Jacquard,
3、毛巾刷毛布 Terry Brush,蚂蚁刷毛 Buckly Fleece,毛巾提花布 Terry Jacquard,双面刷毛 Polar Fleece (both side brushed, combed & sheared),单刷单摇 One side brushed, combed, sheared & anti-pilling,双刷单摇 Both side brushed, combed, sheared but only one side anti-pilling,双刷双摇 Both side brushed, combed, sheared & anti-pilling,斜纹毛圈布
4、Twill French Terry,拉毛布 Fleece,棉毛布(双罗纹组织) Interlock,双面布提花 Double Knitted - Jacquard,双面布网眼 Double Knitted -Piqu,健康布 (棉盖涤, 吸湿快干) Healthy Fabric,猪皮布 Pig Skin,双面纱卡布 Sucker,法式罗纹布 French Rib,罗纹 Rib 11,罗纹 Rib 22,花式罗纹 Fancy Rib (如 11 + 22),提花罗纹 (如 用结构来提花) Rib Jacquard,移圈罗纹 Rib Pointelle,交叉毛圈布 Cross French Te
5、rry (Mini French Terry),Classification of Knitted Fabrics 针织分类 Definition after ISO 7839: 1984 Knitted fabrics are made from interlocking loops, formed from a single yarn or from many. They are classified into weft knitted and warp knitted fabrics.,Characteristics 特性 May be made from a single yarn.
6、(可用单支纱织成) The yarn is fed crosswise to the length of the fabric. (横向织法) Can be unravelled (会脱散); may ladder. (呈梯状) Knitting needles can work sequentially or all together. (所有的针可按顺序或同时进行编织),Characteristics 特性 Requires a full warp sheet. (需要整片经面) The loop-forming yarns are fed in the direction of the
7、length of the fabric. (直向织法) Can not be unravelled, usually does not ladder. (不会脱散,不呈梯状) Knitting needles always work together as a unit. (所有的针同时进行编织),纬编,经编,针织布,Production,一根纱在纬向的每一根针上成圈 Sequential loop formation on a flat machineSequential needles: Machines can be flat or circular. Needles are usua
8、lly of the latch type. (机台可分平编和圆编),一根纱在经向相邻的几根针上成圈 Loop formation on a warp knitting machineWarp knitting: Warp knitting uses one or more warp sheets. Each yarn is looped around a needle and the needles are all moved together. (每一支纱在一根针上成圈,所有的针同时进行工作),Weft Knitted Fabrics,Warp Knitted Fabrics,纬编,经编,
9、Latch Needles,Needles and Sinker for Single Knitting Machine 单面针织机之针和沉降片,Needles for Double Knitting Machine 双面针织机之针,单面针织机 Single Knitting Machine,双面针织机 Double Knitting Machine,中间空心,中间实心,Single & Double Knitting Machines,單面針织機平均一天24小時的產量約為250 500 Kg / 布 雙面針织機平均一天24小時的產量約為250 Kg / 布 依布種及紗的粗細不同產能不同, 紗
10、越細產能越低, 紗越粗產能越高,Single Knitting Machine 单面针织机鸟瞰图,Loop Formation,起针 挺针 退圈 垫纱 / 弯纱 脱圈 / 成圈,Latch Needles,The Intermeshing of LoopsHead (the needle loop), two legs, and two feet. The feet joining two adjacent loops form the sinker loop. Fabric is formed by intermeshing loops. Each loop has four interme
11、shing points in two pairs. The legs within a pair must always intermesh in the same sense; both legs lying either under or over the head of the preceding loop. The upper pair may intermesh in the opposite sense to the lower pair, depending on the construction.,Loop characteristics,網狀交織結合點,Face and B
12、ack of Knitted Loops (针织布的正反面) The lower pair of meshing points determine whether the loop is a face loop or a back loop. A back loop, is formed when the loop is drawn through the previous loop in a direction away from the viewer: the legs of the loop lie under the head of the preceding loop. A face
13、 loop, is formed when the loop is drawn through the previous loop in a direction towards the viewer: the legs of the loop lie over the head of the preceding loop.,Back loop 反面成圈,Face loop 正面成柱,圈 Head,柱 Leg,Courses and Wales 纬向和经向 A course is a row of loops produced by adjacent needles during the sam
14、e knitting cycle.A wale is a column of loops produced by the same needle on successive knitting cycles.,A course 纬向,A wale 经向,Basic Construction of Circular Knitted Fabrics 针织布的基本组织,1. Knit 成圈 2. Tuck 集圈*,3. Miss (Float) 不成圈,如 網眼布 Piqu,如 提花布 Jacquard,* 吃紗不成圈謂之集圈. 一次不脫圈稱為一次集圈, 二次不脫圈稱為二次集圈, 鉤中會出現三根紗,一
15、根為底紗, 加上二次集圈, 等於有三根紗.,如 單面針織布 Single Jersey,Tuck and Float (Miss) Loops A tuck stitch comprises a held loop and a tuck loop, both intermeshed in the same course. (由成圈與集圈組成 ) Held loop: a loop pulled through the loop of the previous course and retained by the needle over one or more courses. ( 成圈 ) T
16、uck loop: a length of yarn received by a needle but not pulled through the loop of the previous course. (一根紗在針上吃紗但不成圈, 掛在下一路的線圈上 ) Float (miss) loop: a length of yarn not received by a needle and connecting two loops of the same course that are not in adjacent wale. ( 一根紗不與緊鄰的縱向紗圈相結合, 而跳開與同排近鄰的紗圈相結合
17、. ),A tuck stitch,A float (or miss) loop,A tuck loop,集圈,不成圈,Loop Formation,起针 挺针 退圈 垫纱 / 弯纱 脱圈 / 成圈,Latch Needles,Needle starts to ascend,Needle ascends& crosses horizontal edge of the machine,Loop descends,Yarn is fed onto needle, then latch closes and needle descends,Loop is therefore formed,Plain
18、, Single Jersey This structure is made with only a single set of needles. It is called single face, plain or single jersey.(Jersey is a general name for knitted fabrics. It is not restricted to any particular structure.(单面针织布是由一套针织成的) The two sides of the fabric have a different appearance. One side
19、 shows only face loops, the other side only back loops. (正面呈现柱状,反面呈现弧圈) It has relatively low extensibility in the width and tends to curl at the edges. (单面针织布的横向延展性不大,布边趋向卷曲),Plain, face,back,production,Cross-tuck (Piqu) 交叉集圈 Piqu-style relief patterning can be made on single or double jersey base
20、structures. The single jersey base is more common because it is lighter weight. The pattern is formed by alternating plain and tuck loops within one course and between one course and another. (Piqu 布可用单針機或双針機织出,为求纺织品重量轻. 一般多织成单面布. 在纬向中可集圈与成圈交替出现. 雙面布的piqu較單面布的piqu柔軟),Cross-tuck (pique), face,back,In
21、lay (Loopback) - Baby French Terry 镶嵌结构 An extra (inlay) yarn is floated on the technical back, tucking at regular intervals. Usually the inlay yarn is much coarser than the ground yarn. These fabrics have a fine face and a bulky looped back which is often brushed or raised. (多一根粗纱镶嵌在织物的反面,可达到正面组织平滑
22、,反面组织粗糙. 镶嵌的纱可悬弧在表面或可经刷毛加工, 提高了织物的厚度和保暖性.),Inlay or loopback, schematic,Inlay or loopback, face,back,Jacquard 提花布 When a color is not required on the face, the yarn floats on the back of the fabric. A wide range of designs can be created . The fabric is not very extensible, because of the large numb
23、er of floats. Applications include fashion pullovers and waistcoats. (当色纱不希望在提花布的正面呈现时,可隐藏浮出在反面. 其设计可多样化,织纹不具好的延展性,因为反面被浮出的色纱勾缠住),Jacquard, schematic,Jacquard, back,Jacquard, face,Plush or Terry 毛巾布 Plush or knitted terry fabric is made by including (plating) an extra yarn which is made to form exte
24、nded sinker loops. The plated yarn can be knitted at every needle or on selected needles to form a pattern. (毛巾布是多加一根纱织出的,在反面造成圈状的效果,可在每一根针上成圈,也可在选择的针上成圈,造成不同的效果) Cut plush, or knitted velour is made by cutting the plated yarn loops. The fabric surface then resembles velvet (velour). (成圈后可剪断而成天鹅绒织品)
25、,Plush or terry, schematic 反面形成毛圈,Plush or terry,Cut plush (velour) 毛圈被切断謂之天鵝絨,毛圈不被切斷謂之毛巾布,正包毛巾布 Reverse Plaiting Terry,反包毛巾布 Velour (天鹅绒),面 Face,底 Back,线圈 Loop,面 Face,底 Back,线圈 Loop,面与底的线圈纱种 相同 (不剪线圈) Yarns of face and back are same, loop wont be cut,面与底的线圈纱种不同, 底的线圈剪后,面的组织不受影响 Different yarns betw
26、een face and back, loop will be cut so that the structure of face wont be affected,Two Types of Terry Fabrics,Rib Fabric 罗纹布 Rib fabrics are made on two needle beds with the needles in a staggered formation. The loops are drawn in opposite directions so that face and back loops alternate in each cou
27、rse. Both sides of the fabric show only the face loops. The back loops are exposed only when the fabric is extended in the width direction. Rib fabrics are very extensible in the width. Applications include pullovers, waistcoats, underwear, socks. (罗纹布是由两套针交叉织出的,它們的圈形成上下交叉排列,两面都呈现柱状,反面弧圈只有在拉开横向才会出现,
28、罗纹布在横向延展性佳.),Rib fabric,production,2x2 Rib, Broad Ribs 罗纹 A wide range of rib fabrics can be produced, depending on the set-out of the needles. The most popular is 2x2 rib which is made by taking every third needle out of action in each needle bed. (罗纹的种类千变万化, 最普遍的是2上2下罗纹,每隔两针变化一次) The two sides of
29、the 2x2 rib fabric look the same. If the fabric is stretched in the width, the two rib loops are exposed between the two face loops. It is very elastic in the width direction. (2上2下罗纹正反两面看起来一样,在横向具有非常好的伸展性),2x2 rib,Interlock 棉毛布(双罗纹组织) Interlock is made on two needle beds in which the needles are di
30、rectly opposed an work alternately. (棉毛布是由两套针织出来的,正反各一套罗纹组织在中间被锁住) It takes two courses to make one row of loops on the face and back. Both side show only face loops and look identical. The fabric is extensible, but not very elastic. (棉毛布正反两面都呈现相同的柱状,织纹具有延展性但缺乏很好的弹性),Interlock,production,Double Piqu
31、 双面组织 Piqu布 Double piqu is made on rib machines by a selection of knitted loops and floats. The floats greatly reduce the width extensibility. (罗纹机可以织出双面组织 piqu布,因为用 float 的织法,所以大大减少了织品本身横向的延展性. 雙面布的piqu較單面布的piqu柔軟),Double piqu, face,back,Rib Jacquard 罗纹提花 In double jersey jacquard machines, the nee
32、dles in the two needle beds (cylinder and dial) can be selected either to knit or miss. (运用双针织提花机,可以选用成圈或不成圈两种织法而成.),Jacquard, face,back,Basic Characteristics & Applications of Woven Fabrics 梭(平)织布的基本特性与应用,Basic Characteristics & Applications of Weft Knits 纬编针织布的基本特性与应用,Basic Characteristics & Appli
33、cations of Warp Knits 经编针织布的基本特性与应用,弹力单面布 Single Jersey with Elastane,单面四角网眼布 Piqu,单面六角网眼布 Lacoste,单面四段鱼鳞布 Baby French Terry,单面布提花 Jacquard,毛巾刷毛布 Terry Brush,蚂蚁刷毛 Buckly Fleece,毛巾提花布 Terry Jacquard,双面刷毛 Polar Fleece (both side brushed, combed & sheared),单刷单摇 One side brushed, combed, sheared & anti-
34、pilling,双刷单摇 Both side brushed, combed, sheared but only one side anti-pilling,双刷双摇 Both side brushed, combed, sheared & anti-pilling,斜纹毛圈布 Twill French Terry,交叉毛圈布 Cross French Terry (Mini French Terry),拉毛布 Fleece,棉毛布(双罗纹组织) Interlock,双面布提花 Double Knitted - Jacquard,双面布网眼 Double Knitted -Piqu,健康布 (
35、棉盖涤, 吸湿快干) Healthy Fabric,猪皮布 Pig Skin,双面纱卡布 Sucker,法式罗纹布 French Rib,罗纹 Rib 11,罗纹 Rib 22,花式罗纹 Fancy Rib (如 11 + 22),提花罗纹 (如 用结构来提花) Rib Jacquard,移圈罗纹 Rib Pointelle,弹力单面布 Single Jersey with Elastane,单面四角网眼布 Piqu,单面六角网眼布 Lacoste,单面四段鱼鳞布 Baby French Terry,单面布提花 Jacquard,毛巾刷毛布 Terry Brush,蚂蚁刷毛 Buckly Fl
36、eece,毛巾提花布 Terry Jacquard,双面刷毛 Polar Fleece (both side brushed, combed & sheared),单刷单摇 One side brushed, combed, sheared & anti-pilling,双刷单摇 Both side brushed, combed, sheared but only one side anti-pilling,双刷双摇 Both side brushed, combed, sheared & anti-pilling,斜纹毛圈布 Twill French Terry,拉毛布 Fleece,棉毛
37、布(双罗纹组织) Interlock,双面布提花 Double Knitted - Jacquard,双面布网眼 Double Knitted -Piqu,健康布 (棉盖涤, 吸湿快干) Healthy Fabric,猪皮布 Pig Skin,双面纱卡布 Sucker,法式罗纹布 French Rib,罗纹 Rib 11,罗纹 Rib 22,花式罗纹 Fancy Rib (如 11 + 22),提花罗纹 (如 用结构来提花) Rib Jacquard,移圈罗纹 Rib Pointelle,交叉毛圈布 Cross French Terry (Mini French Terry),When pla
38、cing an order, the following must be defined: (谈判订单时, 以下几点需要详细说明:)1. Composition 成份 Buying office & Supplier / Factory.2. Fabric Weight 克重 (gm / m) Buying Office & Supplier / Factory.3. Yarn Count 紗支數 (粗细度) Supplier / Factory.4. Gauge 針數 (gg / inch) Supplier / Factory.5. Fabric Width 幅寬 - Supplier /
39、 Factory.,Circular Knitting Factory,Circular Knitting Machine 大筒圆编針织机,Circular Knitting Machine 大筒圆编針织机,Fabric Turning Machine 翻边机,Brushing Machine 刷毛机,Anti Pilling Process 摇粒,Functional aspects of double-layer sportswear,Sewing with Correct Needle,Damaged stitches,Undamaged stitches by using the co
40、rrect needle,C : 100% Cotton CVC : Chief Value CottonCotton / PolyesterExample: 80% / 20% , 60% / 40%, 55% / 45% T/C : Polyester (Tetoron) / CottonExample: 65% / 35% SP : Spun Polyester (Staple Yarn 短纤) (100% Polyester),CVC 30 / 2 (Twist 合捻)CVC 30 / 1 x 2 (兩支相同粗細的紗同织)C30 + C20 (兩支不同粗細的紗同织)C30 + OP 4
41、0D (Elastane, Spantex 彈力絲)C30 + 100D/36F (100 Denier 紗內有 36 條 filaments),纱支数和单纱之相当支数 (Spun Yarns / Short Fibres) Example: 40/2 = 2 x 40/1 = 20/1 50/2 = 2 x 50/1 = 25/1 45/3 = 3 x 45/1 = 15/1,1. 单纱 2. 合捻(股)纱,合捻(股)纱 2-Fold (Ply) Yarn 合捻(股)纱 3-Fold (Ply) Yarn,Single Yarn,2-Fold (Ply) Yarn,Filament Yarns / Long Fibres (长纤)Example : 40 Danier x 2 = 80 Danier,Thank You,
