1、Bodice with Asymmetric Darts Draping For Fashion Design Bodice VariationsCONENTS 01 Style analysis02 Preparation of dress form and muslin03 Drape the bodice04 Marking Trueing Checking for fit 05 Completed muslin pattern01 The dart on the right bodice is in the form of gathering.02 The dart on the le
2、ft bodice is hided in the style line.1. Style analysis01 Preparation of dress form: Tape the location of the segment line and the gathering, (or tape the starting and the ending point of the gathering), and tape the whole waistline.2. Preparation of dress form and muslin2. Preparation of dress form
3、and muslin 02 Preparation of muslin : Muslin length=Front length + 20 cm Muslin width= Front bust circumstance + 20 cm 2. Preparation of dress form and muslin 03 Establish the guidelines： Draw the center front line. Draw the bust line, measure “ ”down from the top edge of the muslin. 3. Drape the bo
4、dice 01 Pin the muslin at the bust point and center front.02 Drape the neckline.03 Smooth the muslin, pin at the shoulder point.04 Smooth around the armhole, pin at the under arm point.05 Smooth the left bodice at the side seam, pin the side waist point.06 Drape the waist line, smooth the muslin fro
5、m the left side waist point, slash, pin along the waistline to the right side waist point, leave some ease at the waist.3. Drape the bodice 07 Drape the lower style line: Smooth the muslin from the right side waist point along the side seam towards the bottom style line. Shape the style line by styl
6、e tape and mark the starting point of the gathering. Cut the muslin after adding seam allowance at the style line.08 Drape the upper style line: Smooth the muslin from the under armhole point along the side seam to the style line, smooth the muslin along the style line to the gathering location Smoo
7、th muslin from the left bust point to the end location of the gathering, pin. Pin at starting point and ending point of gathers, adjust the gathers as desired. 4. Marking Trueing Checking 01 Mark the bodiceMark the neckline, shoulder point and armhole, under armhole point, and the intersection of si
8、de seam and style line.Mark the upper style line, and the location of the gathering.Mark the lower style line.Mark the waist line. 02 True the linesConnect the neckline, shoulder line and armhole on the right bodice and copy it to the left bodice. Connect the left side seam, waist line and the lower
9、 style lineShorten the dart for 2.5 cm, ture the lower style line, check notches on the style lines , adjust as necessary.Connect the right side seam.4. Marking Trueing Checking for fit 03 Add seam allowance：add seam allowance, trim away excess muslin.04 Checking for fit: Measure the gathering dista
10、nce at the lower style line to decide the completed gathering length at the upper style line, mark it on pattern. Hand stitch the gathering area on upper style line, pull the thread and adjust the gathering to the designed length. Pin together the bodices at the style line, pin the bodice back to the dress form, check for fit.5. The completed muslin patternAfter the muslin pattern is completed, label the grain line, the pattern name and the size
