1、Bedford cord（凸条布） Rounded cords run in the warp direction with fine sunken lines between. The cord may be emphasised by wadding ends. The weave on the face of the cord may be plain or twill. Worsted yarns are generally used for suitings and woollen yarns for heavy trousers such as riding breeches, b
2、ut there is no restriction on the choice of fibres that may be used in this weave. In the lighter weights the construction may be used for dress fabrics.(See Piqu.) Birdseye(鸟眼组织)Blanket range（包袱样） In order to offer customers designs with different colourways, a pattern is woven in small sections to
3、 form a short length of full-width cloth consisting of variety of designs.Blazer cloth（运动茄克呢） A heavily milled raised woolen cloth, which may be printed with bold stripes. Used for sports coats. Boucl（珠皮呢） A woven or knitted fabric with an irregular surface created by the use of fancy yarns having a
4、 bouclor curled appearance. It may be produced from a wide range of fibres in dress or coating weights. Box cloth（呢面粗纺呢） An all-wool, woolen-spun fabric with a fibrous surface and firm handle. The surface should be completely covered with fibres so that no threads show. It is woven in a variety of w
5、eaves, depending on the weight of the finished cloth, and, according to weight, used for such purposes as leggings, coachman cloths, and billiard cloth. Broadcloth(阔幅布、府绸、绒面呢) This term may be used in one of three ways. It may simply refer to (a) suitings which are at least 135 cm wide in the finish
6、ed state (b) lightweight poplin type fabric commonly used as shirting in Canada and the USA, or (c) a heavily milled woollen cloth made in a twill weave from fine merino yarns. The fabric is given a dress-face finish. Brocade(锦缎) A fabric ornamented by a pattern produced by Jacquard or dobby weaving
7、, in which warp, weft, or both sets of threads float over the fabric surface to create the required pattern. The basic structure or ground of the cloth is usually a simple weave such as a satin. The woven pattern or figure is often enhanced by the use of continuous filament yarns. Buckram（硬衬布） A lig
8、htweight woven cloth which is stiffened after piece-dyeing. It is usually made from cotton in a coarse plain weave and is used for stiffening. Calendered cloth（压辊整理） This refers to cloth, frequently made from cotton or linen, which has been passed during finishing between pairs of heavy rotating rol
9、lers, known as bowls, which may be heated or unheated. Various effects may be produced. Embossed（浮雕压花） An embossed pattern is obtained by calendering the cloth between a suitably engraved roller and a soft compressible bowl. The embossed effect is durable only if the cloth is made from thermoplastic
10、 fibres or, in the case of cotton, has been resin-treated. Flattened(定型) To flatten and smooth cloth it may be passed between pairs of bowls which apply sufficient pressure to flatten the threads and close up the interstices of the cloth. Glazed or lustrous appearance（轧光） A high lustre may be produc
11、ed by Schreinering. This is done by impressing very fine lines on to the surface of the cloth from a heated roller engraved with about 150 lines/cm. This finish is not durable unless a thermoplastic material is present. Everglazewas an example of such a finish. Moir(波纹) A water-mark effect produced
12、by calendering See Moir.A lustrous appearance is also effected by friction calendering. Here the cloth passes between a pair of rollers, the upper one having a highly polished, heated surface which rotates at a greater surface speed than the softer bowl beneath. This difference in surface speed deve
13、lops friction and consequently lustre on the fabric surface. Calico（平布） A generic term for plain cotton cloth heavier than muslins. Cambric(细纺) A fine lightweight, plain-weave cotton or linen cloth which has been fairly closely woven and given a slight stiffening and calendering to produce a smooth
14、surface. Printed, with a crease-resist finish, it is often used for dresses. Very lightweight cambrics (about 65g/m2) are used for handkerchiefs. Canvas(帆布) This firm, rather stiff, strong warp-faced cloth is usually made in a closely woven plain or double-end plain weave from cotton, flax, nylon, o
15、r polyester. Its weight can be varied over a very wide range according to its intended use. Carpet（毯子） Velour or Velvet are terms applied to Axminster, Wilton, tufted and bonded carpets which have very smooth, level and velvet-like surfaces. The individual tufts are not visible in the densely packed
16、 pile. Plush or Saxony are cut pile carpets with longer and denser pile than velour. Pile height is up to 15 mm. The tufts in the pile appear distinctly separate from each other. Shag is a tufted or woven long pile carpet with a low tuft density. Cord has a short loop pile produced by tufting, weavi
17、ng, or bonding Twist pile denotes a high folding twist in the yarn used in tufting and weaving, giving a slightly mottled look to the surface. Embossed or sculptured effects are developed by the combination of cut and loop pile. Casement cloth(薄窗帘布) A weft-faced, plain-weave curtain fabric weight ab
18、out 150g per sq.metre. It may be woven from cotton or manufactured fibres. Cavalry twill(马裤呢) A firm warp-faced cloth characterised by steep double-twill lines. The cloth is often made of wool and is produced in a variety of weights to meet the requirements of breeches rainwear, and tailored dresses
19、. Chambray（青年布） A plain-weave cotton cloth made with a dyed warp and undyed weft, which gives the cloth a somewhat speckled appearance. Used for dresses. Cheese cloth（包布） A cheap, soft, plain-cloth of open construction and light in weight. Its principal use is as cheese wrapping. Chenille cloth（雪尼尔布
20、） A cloth woven with chenille yarn in the weft. Chiffon（绡） A sheer, very lightweight plain-weave cloth of open square construction made from hard twisted continuous filament yarns. Silk or nylon are frequently used. The fabric has a very soft drape. It may be piece-dyed or printed. Chin（印经平纹布） A ter
21、m applied to woven cloth printed with a design having a soft, blurred outline. This is produced by printing the sheet of parallel warp yarns before weaving, with the result that the printed outline does not keep exact register during weaving, and the outline appears blurred in the woven cloth. Cir（蜡
22、光织物） A term used to describe fabrics with a high mirror-like lustre produced by waxing and polishing the cloth by mechanical means. If a cloth with a satin weave is used, it further enhances the lustre by providing a very smooth surface. Coated fabric（涂层织物） A knitted, woven or nonwoven fabric on whi
23、ch single or multilayers of a continuous polymeric adherent coating is applied on either one or both faces of the fabric. According to end-use a stiff or flexible coated fabric is produced. Colour and weave effects（配色模纹） Designs in fabric may be produced by the combination of a suitable simple weave
24、 and the arrangement of two or more colours in the warp and weft. Fabrics described as Birdseye, dogs tooth, hounds tooth, shepherds check, hairline, step effect, or Glen check pattern are examples of cloths produced in this way. Corduroy（灯芯绒） A cut-weft pile fabric in which the pile forms cords run
25、ning along the length of the cloth. It is generally made from cotton and the pile may be printed. A velveteen may be cut in such a way as to produce the appearance of corduroy. Covert cloth(芝麻呢) A warp-faced cloth with a fine, steep twill. Its chief characteristic is the mottled or speckled appearan
26、ce produced by the use of grandrelle or mock grandrelle yarns in the warp only. Worsted yarns are often used, although a quality with a worsted warp and a woollen weft is made. Covert cloth is particularly used for light overcoats. Crpe（绉布） Fabrics in this group are characterised by having a surface
27、 which is crinkled or puckered to some degree due to the inclusion of crpe yarn. Such an effect may be produced either in woven or knitted fabrics. Cretonne(大花型印花装饰布) A printed fabric, heavier than chintz, commonly of cotton. It is usually unglazed and likely to carry a floral design. Used for furni
28、shings. Damask（锦缎） A reversible figured fabric woven from one type of warp and one type of weft, based usually on a satin weave. Used for furnishings, and in the bleached state for tablecloths etc. Delaine（高级羊毛薄花呢） A printed lightweight, plain-weave cloth made from wool. It originated from mousselin
29、e delaine, which means wool muslin. Denim（劳动布） A warp-faced twill with dyed yarns, generally blue or brown, in the warp and a white weft. It is often made from cotton in a 3/1 twill weave and pre-shrunk during finishing for use in overalls and denims. Weights range from 200-300 g/m2. Brushed denim a
30、nd stretch denim are also produced. Stonewash finishing, applied to jeans and denims, involves tumbling garments vigorously in a laundry-type washing machine containing pebbles and possibly bleach. The consequent effect is the now well-recognised non-pristine look, which is often graded by manufactu
31、rers to ensure uniformity of effect and quality in the garment. Dimity（麻纱） A fabric, usually of cotton, that is checked or striped by corded effects which are made by weaving two or more threads as one. Dobby(小花纹织物) This is a mechanism applied to the loom that enables weaves and patterns to be produ
32、ced that cannot be woven on a tappet loom, but are much less elaborate than those obtained by Jacquard weaving. Fabrics so woven are referred to as dobby fabrics. Doeskin cloth（驼丝锦） A fine woollen, warp-face cloth usually of Merino wool, milled, raised, and dress-face finished. It is similar to beav
33、er cloth but lighter and finer. Dogs tooth check（犬牙格） Domet（绒布） An imitation flannel made mostly from cotton. Both sides of the cloth are raised. It is used as an interlining in tailoring. Dotted Swiss（点子花薄纱） A fine, fairly stiff cotton muslin-type fabric with a clip-spot effect. Dress-face finish(顺
34、毛整理) This term applies to woollen cloth covered with a lustrous nap of short fibres. This is largely the result of milling, raising, cropping, and laying the nap, under suitable conditions, smoothly in one direction. The finish is applied to fabrics such as doeskin, beaver, and pilot cloths. Drill(卡
35、其布) A warp-faced twill similar to a denim but usually bleached or piece-dyed. It may be mineral khaki dyed for overalls. Satin drills are made in a 5-end satin weave. Duck（粗布） A closely woven, strong, plain-weave cloth similar to canvas and used for similar purposes. The term also applies to tropica
36、l suitings. Duffel（起绒粗呢） A heavy, low-quality woollen cloth, napped on both faces. Generally made into short duffel coats. Dungaree（粗蓝布） A strong cotton cloth, similar to denim, made for overalls. A 3/1 or 2/1 twill is used. The cloth may be yarn or piece-dyed. Embossed cloth（浮雕压花） Facing silk(面子绸料)
37、 A lustrous fabric used for facing lapels in evening suits.Barathea, ottoman, satin, and twill structures are used. Often silk is not used in the cloth in which case it should not be referred to as a silk facing. Faille（绨） A fine, soft fabric, woven from filament yarn, made in a plain weave with wef
38、t-way ribs formed by the intersection of a fine close-set warp with a coarser weft. Faille belongs to a group of fabrics having ribs in the weft direction. Examples of this group arranged in ascending order of prominence of the rib are taffeta, faille, poult, and grosgrain. Felt（毡） The cloth is iden
39、tified by its densely matted appearance. It may have first been woven before the finish was developed, or it may consist of a mass of animal fibres which have been made to felt or mat together to form a continuous sheet of fabric without the aid of yarns. Figured fabric（花纹织物） A fabric having a Jacqu
40、ard or dobby pattern. Fishnet（网眼布） An open-work structure, weft-knitted from a combination of floated stitches and plated stitches. Used for run-resistant stockings. Flannel（法兰绒） A plain or twill weave fabric with a soft handle due to being slightly milled and raised. The cloth was originally made e
41、ntirely from wool but now commonly contains some other fibre also. Both woollen and worsted flannels are produced weighing about 200 g/m2. Flannelette（绒布） A cotton imitation of the wool flannel. Softly twisted yarns are used in the weft, and these respond to the action of the raising machine. A nap
42、is produced on both faces of the cloth. Flannelette weighs 180-200g/m2 and is simiar to but heavier than winceyette. It may be piece-dyed, printed, or woven from dyed yarns to produce coloured stripes. Flannelette has been used for childrens nightwear, but it is legally required to be made flame-ret
43、ardant. Heavier qualities are used for sheets.Flock printed cloth（植绒布） Foulard（薄软绸） A lightweight 2/2 twill fabric made from continuous filament flat yarns. It is often printed. It is similar to surah, which was originally made from silk. Frieze（起绒粗呢） A woollen overcoating which has been heavily mil
44、led and raised. The nap may be rubbed into small beads or pills to produce a nap frieze. Fustian（纬起绒织物） A general term used to describe a group of fabrics which have a considerably greater number of picks than ends. Beaverteen, corduroy, moleskin cloth, and velveteen are examples. Gabardine(华达呢) A w
45、arp-faced cloth firmly woven in 2/1 or 2/2 twill with a greater number of ends than picks. The fairly steep twilllines can be clearly seen, since the yarns used are compact. The fabric is finished to give a clear, clean appearance. Gabardines are commonly made from worsted yarns, all-cotton yarns, u
46、nions of wool and cotton, and blends of various fibres. Gabardine to be used for rainwear must be shower-proofed. Gauze（纱） Georgette（乔其纱） Gingham（方格色织布） A firm plain-weave, lightweight cloth of nearly square construction woven with dyed yarns to form a check. Commonly made from cotton; used for dres
47、ses, tablecloths, etc. Glen check or Glen Urquhart check(格纹布) Grey cloth（坯布） This term is applied to woven and knitted fabrics and is synonymous with loomstate, which refers to the condition in which the woven cloth leaves the loom. Grosgrain（罗缎） A cloth of about 180 grams/square metre in which the
48、rounded rib runs in the weft direction and is more pronounced than that in a taffeta or poult. The warp consists of closely woven continuous filament yarns. Rather coarse yarn is used in the weft. Habutai（仿绸） A general term applied to silk fabrics that are fine, soft, and have been degummed. Jappe i
49、s an exmple of this group. Haircord（麻纱） The cloth bears the name of the modified plain weave from which it is made. Fine ribs run in the warp direction of the cloth, which may be printed and is usually made from cotton. Hairline（条纹） Herringbone（海力蒙） A cloth made from a herringbone weave. Hessian（麻袋布） A plain fabric of approximately square construction woven from one of the bast fibres, usually, jute. Holland（充亚麻窗帘布） A thin, glazed, medium-weight plain-weave cloth made from cotton or flax which has been beetled or has received a glazed fini
